Not for my toned and athletic frame alas.
The car has a big scrape across the corner of the front bumper and i thought i'd sort it out. I'm presuming it's like any painting - prep and patience being the most important thing, get progressively more smooth (now that is like me).
I've not done this before, so thought i'd bung it out here and benefit from some sage advice regarding materials, process, tips, Halfords black gloss paint etc.
Cue Carl...........
bodywork advice
Re: bodywork advice
What's the bumper made of? and the finish?
If plastic >
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints ... per-filler
https://hycote.co.uk/product/plastic-primer-grey/
If plastic >
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints ... per-filler
https://hycote.co.uk/product/plastic-primer-grey/
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
![Image](https://www.jhepburn.co.uk/images/Honda-VTR1000F-Firestorm-100px2.png)
- agentpineapple
- Posts: 15124
- Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:16 pm
Re: bodywork advice
if the bumper is plastic, then buy some flexible bumper filler. rub down the area you intend to repair and paint, i'd use a 400 grit went n dry.
then clean the area, then fill the damaged area. use as little filler as possible, it'll mean less rubbing down. then rub down again with 400. or a more coarse grit to begin with. but as you get close to the finish you want start upping the grit level to 800/1000/1200
then clean the ares, i use white spirit. use a plastic primer. rub that down with 1200.
clean again, then paint.
base coat being the colour and top coat being the clear lacquer.
for a good finish you need to lay down several layers of base coat, then rub that down with 1500 wet n dry before the top coat. but seen as it's a bumper i wouldn't worry about a high level of finish.
well that's how i'd do it.
carl knows more than me, give him a shout.
and welsh shaun used to be a painter so he's the one to really ask, can't remember his forum name tho. good luck with it mate. take your time and don't rush it, give the paint plenty of time to dry....![Thumbup :thumbup:](./images/smilies/icon_thumbup.gif)
then clean the area, then fill the damaged area. use as little filler as possible, it'll mean less rubbing down. then rub down again with 400. or a more coarse grit to begin with. but as you get close to the finish you want start upping the grit level to 800/1000/1200
then clean the ares, i use white spirit. use a plastic primer. rub that down with 1200.
clean again, then paint.
base coat being the colour and top coat being the clear lacquer.
for a good finish you need to lay down several layers of base coat, then rub that down with 1500 wet n dry before the top coat. but seen as it's a bumper i wouldn't worry about a high level of finish.
well that's how i'd do it.
carl knows more than me, give him a shout.
and welsh shaun used to be a painter so he's the one to really ask, can't remember his forum name tho. good luck with it mate. take your time and don't rush it, give the paint plenty of time to dry....
![Thumbup :thumbup:](./images/smilies/icon_thumbup.gif)
HEY YOU GUYS!!!!!!
Re: bodywork advice
The big man has pretty much covered it but I wouldn't go more fine than 800 grit silicon carbide (wet n dry) if coating on top as you need somthing for the paint to adhere too. Also I wouldn't use White Spirit either as there is too much room for contaminates and getting a paint reaction even if washed down with soap and water after the White Spirit. Either use Soap and water, a bit fairy will do or use an IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) solution or wipe or dedicated painters wipe / panel wipe between coats. That's being really fussy though. Soapy water is good enough but make sure it's totaly dry before coating and you may want to give it a quick wipe over with a tac rag to get rid of any dust particles right before coating.
Depending on how deep the scratches are you may get away without painting. Has it gone through the clearcoat? In other words have they gone through to the colour so a compounding solution (T Cut) wont work. I wouldnt use T cut as it's aggressive but maybe some G3 Scratch remover might work. You'd be suprised what can be done with a bit of polish. I'm sure you remember the T Cut days.
Otherwise it's painting......
Rub down the area well with some course wet n dry heavier to start 240 / 180 (dry).
Fill and rub down to a 400 grade (dry) finish including rubbing down some of the surrounding area.
Fill again to get the last little niggles and perfect. Rub down to a 400 grade (dry)
Prime
Rub down with 400 (wet)
Apply 2 coats of basecoat or untill covered and rub down wth 400 or 800 (wet)
Apply clearcoat 2 good coats should be enough but allow to dry between coats and rub down with 800 (wet) and for the final coat once cured, 24 hours, 1200 / 1500 (wet) to get rid of the Orange peel and then polish back up to a high shine.
If you do end up with the odd run, don't worry. Allow to dry and use a flat blade to scrape the high points off and the rubbing down will get rid of the rest. Use a block if rubbing down a flat surface. You will find that as you go through the coats it will look better and better and your spraying technique will improve. So hopefully by the time you get to the laquer which is more difficult you will be OK. Try not to apply too thick, light coats back and fourth. Many light coats is better than one thick coat, start with a light dust coat before working you way up to a thicker coat and allow 10mins to flash off in-between if the same layer and allow longer if jumping from primer to base to clear. Cover the surrounding area too as when you polish this will all blend in together. Just remember you can't screw up the spraying as all you need to do is rub it back down, try again and give it another coat.
Watch some youtube vids to get an idea but you will find various techniques and grades of scratch folk use.
This probably wont help you but if you want to see how the pro's do it...
https://www.youtube.com/user/MrZoeystevenson
Depending on how deep the scratches are you may get away without painting. Has it gone through the clearcoat? In other words have they gone through to the colour so a compounding solution (T Cut) wont work. I wouldnt use T cut as it's aggressive but maybe some G3 Scratch remover might work. You'd be suprised what can be done with a bit of polish. I'm sure you remember the T Cut days.
![Big Grin :biggrin](./images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Otherwise it's painting......
Rub down the area well with some course wet n dry heavier to start 240 / 180 (dry).
Fill and rub down to a 400 grade (dry) finish including rubbing down some of the surrounding area.
Fill again to get the last little niggles and perfect. Rub down to a 400 grade (dry)
Prime
Rub down with 400 (wet)
Apply 2 coats of basecoat or untill covered and rub down wth 400 or 800 (wet)
Apply clearcoat 2 good coats should be enough but allow to dry between coats and rub down with 800 (wet) and for the final coat once cured, 24 hours, 1200 / 1500 (wet) to get rid of the Orange peel and then polish back up to a high shine.
If you do end up with the odd run, don't worry. Allow to dry and use a flat blade to scrape the high points off and the rubbing down will get rid of the rest. Use a block if rubbing down a flat surface. You will find that as you go through the coats it will look better and better and your spraying technique will improve. So hopefully by the time you get to the laquer which is more difficult you will be OK. Try not to apply too thick, light coats back and fourth. Many light coats is better than one thick coat, start with a light dust coat before working you way up to a thicker coat and allow 10mins to flash off in-between if the same layer and allow longer if jumping from primer to base to clear. Cover the surrounding area too as when you polish this will all blend in together. Just remember you can't screw up the spraying as all you need to do is rub it back down, try again and give it another coat.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Watch some youtube vids to get an idea but you will find various techniques and grades of scratch folk use.
This probably wont help you but if you want to see how the pro's do it...
https://www.youtube.com/user/MrZoeystevenson
==============================Enter the Darkside
- agentpineapple
- Posts: 15124
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- lloydie
- Posts: 20923
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- Location: In the garage somewhere in Coventry
Re: bodywork advice
And most times it’s cheaper just to replace it with another ![](https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
![](https://emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji106.png)
- BigVeeGrin
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