Installing the rod bolts in a VTR is one of those jobs that sound confusing but is actually a rather simple job.
The 22 Ft\Lbs is straight forward but the 120* after that can cause a bit of confusion and even stress on how to get the job done.
Yes you can get a degree wheel for your wrench but there is no need as there is one already there..... the bolt itself.
It is a 12 point fastener, so you take out your maths hat and divide the number of degrees in a circle by the number of points on the bolt or 360/12
This gives you 30* per point on the bolt.
Then just mark one of the bolt points with a sharpie or whatever you have, then count over 4 points (30,60,90,120) and mark the rod at that spot.
Then turn the mark on the bolt to the mark on the rod.....120 degrees quick and easy
Rod bolts, the easy way
Rod bolts, the easy way
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Re: Rod bolts, the easy way
One lesson I learned is that, if you use a ratchet drive, it's easy for it to slip back a tooth or two and lose track of your 120 degree turn.
Same applies when rotating the engine for cam timing.
I recommend that you use a fixed drive when tackling these jobs.
Same applies when rotating the engine for cam timing.
I recommend that you use a fixed drive when tackling these jobs.
Last edited by tony.mon on Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rod bolts, the easy way
Or you just use a tool designed for the job
Torque Angle Gauge, https://store.snapon.com/Torque-Angle-G ... 44861.aspx which is a bit cheaper but worked well for a lot of years until the Torque Angle wrenches came out.
You can get even less expensive version of the Torque Angle Gauge from OTC, Lisle and other tool makers and from your parts houses as well like Halfords http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... -gauge-1-2 £21.99 for the proper tool is not a huge price to pay I would think.
Either a Tq angle capable TQ wrench like the Snap On 3/8" Drive Flex-Head TechAngle Torque Wrench in my box, or a torque angle gauge Torque Angle Gauge, https://store.snapon.com/Torque-Angle-G ... 44861.aspx which is a bit cheaper but worked well for a lot of years until the Torque Angle wrenches came out.
You can get even less expensive version of the Torque Angle Gauge from OTC, Lisle and other tool makers and from your parts houses as well like Halfords http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... -gauge-1-2 £21.99 for the proper tool is not a huge price to pay I would think.
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Re: Rod bolts, the easy way
Yes the proper tool is always the best way but can be a bit cost prohibitive as setting a bolt to a degree setting isn't a common operation for most.
So I just wanted to give a quick and easy way to set the rod bolt torque as you have a built in "degree wheel".
As for what wrench to use so you don't loose where you are at. Personally I don't go the entire 120* in one turn. Instead I bring them up to spec in steps.
IMO this method pulls both side down equally and as my steps are 60,90,120 you get a couple of chances to check where you are at with the marks from step one, which also makes it less critical what type of wrench you use.
Personally I think its a job that needs the cases split, so it's just a good old fashioned box end wrench for me.
Doing the job through the pan can be done but in that case it's whatever wrench you can get into that space and having a visual reference can be a help in this case.
Not saying it the best or only way, just a method to accurately get 120* with the tools that most already have on hand
So I just wanted to give a quick and easy way to set the rod bolt torque as you have a built in "degree wheel".
As for what wrench to use so you don't loose where you are at. Personally I don't go the entire 120* in one turn. Instead I bring them up to spec in steps.
IMO this method pulls both side down equally and as my steps are 60,90,120 you get a couple of chances to check where you are at with the marks from step one, which also makes it less critical what type of wrench you use.
Personally I think its a job that needs the cases split, so it's just a good old fashioned box end wrench for me.
Doing the job through the pan can be done but in that case it's whatever wrench you can get into that space and having a visual reference can be a help in this case.
Not saying it the best or only way, just a method to accurately get 120* with the tools that most already have on hand
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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Re: Rod bolts, the easy way
Great post. It couldn't be more timely for me as I'd missed the additional angle.
Re: Rod bolts, the easy way
8541Hawk wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 7:54 pm Yes the proper tool is always the best way but can be a bit cost prohibitive as setting a bolt to a degree setting isn't a common operation for most.
So I just wanted to give a quick and easy way to set the rod bolt torque as you have a built in "degree wheel".
As for what wrench to use so you don't loose where you are at. Personally I don't go the entire 120* in one turn. Instead I bring them up to spec in steps.
IMO this method pulls both side down equally and as my steps are 60,90,120 you get a couple of chances to check where you are at with the marks from step one, which also makes it less critical what type of wrench you use.
Personally I think its a job that needs the cases split, so it's just a good old fashioned box end wrench for me.
Doing the job through the pan can be done but in that case it's whatever wrench you can get into that space and having a visual reference can be a help in this case.
Not saying it the best or only way, just a method to accurately get 120* with the tools that most already have on hand
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Race/Adventure ride event prep
Post event services
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And advanced Rider training
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Race/Adventure ride event prep
Post event services
Total Rider
Your path to a TX motorcycle license
And advanced Rider training