This question must be on here somewhere already but a quick Google search didn't get me anywhere.
Has anyone tried these instead of a std or aftermarket filter? Reasons why they might be good - no big plate in the way, more airbox volume, less turbulence (maybe). Reasons why the might be bad - no plate in the way, airbox is too small full stop, more turbulence.
Sock-type air filters
- freeridenick
- Posts: 1583
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2014 1:30 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
- lloydie
- Posts: 20921
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: In the garage somewhere in Coventry
Re: Sock-type air filters
It’ll run like sh1t !!
Unless you can persuade roger to divulge the carb setup for lidless !.
Unless you can persuade roger to divulge the carb setup for lidless !.
Re: Sock-type air filters
What you'll get in return is lots of opinions but very few facts.
People seem to expect that a freer - flowing filter such as k+n is just a simple replacement whereas you need to put a little effort in and jet it correctly too.
I played with different filters, including a prototype MWR, as well as enlarged and gutted airboxes, snorkel modifications and a number of carb mods.
Have a search on here in the workshop knowledgebase instead of Google.
And ignore anything you read on the Facebook group, there's too many opinions from people who haven't quite got round to trying it themselves yet.
My findings?
Ignore sock types, but plate styles and enlarged or modified plate types will help, but only if you also fit a freer flowing exhaust and other mods at the same time.
Don't bother drilling holes in the airbox lid, but if you're prepared to jet then an airbox sealed to the tank underside can work well, especially teamed with a modified intake.
But on its own, just fitting a different filter?
Ask for dyno proof before believing any claims.
People seem to expect that a freer - flowing filter such as k+n is just a simple replacement whereas you need to put a little effort in and jet it correctly too.
I played with different filters, including a prototype MWR, as well as enlarged and gutted airboxes, snorkel modifications and a number of carb mods.
Have a search on here in the workshop knowledgebase instead of Google.
And ignore anything you read on the Facebook group, there's too many opinions from people who haven't quite got round to trying it themselves yet.
My findings?
Ignore sock types, but plate styles and enlarged or modified plate types will help, but only if you also fit a freer flowing exhaust and other mods at the same time.
Don't bother drilling holes in the airbox lid, but if you're prepared to jet then an airbox sealed to the tank underside can work well, especially teamed with a modified intake.
But on its own, just fitting a different filter?
Ask for dyno proof before believing any claims.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- freeridenick
- Posts: 1583
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2014 1:30 pm
- Location: Derbyshire
Re: Sock-type air filters
Thanks for both response types guys - succinct from Lloydie and detailed from Tony.
I'm happy to jet and by the time I'll be looking at filters again my engine will be in a completely different state and the bike will be back on the Dyno.
Sounds like you've forgotten Tony but I have your MWR prototype filter and that will be just one of the options I'll be playing with. I'll do some proper searching around the forum this Winter.
The sealed tank/airbox sounds interesting. From what I've read I thought the open airbox mod wasn't sealed.
I'm happy to jet and by the time I'll be looking at filters again my engine will be in a completely different state and the bike will be back on the Dyno.
Sounds like you've forgotten Tony but I have your MWR prototype filter and that will be just one of the options I'll be playing with. I'll do some proper searching around the forum this Winter.
The sealed tank/airbox sounds interesting. From what I've read I thought the open airbox mod wasn't sealed.
Re: Sock-type air filters
iv pulled my hair out the last year with airboxes,carbs,jets. gutted or not gutted airboxs .. and the closer i get to standard the better the bike goes..go figure lol..
best results by far iv had is. K&N with dyno jet kit in the carbs,that came with the mori lump. set of trumpets, overflow bottle removed for airbox and standard lid and snorkel..
now iv tried lots of different lids on the yellow bike. snorkel.drilled,no snorkel.K&N and its not made a dam bit of difference to it lol...
are any two of these bikes the same??
best results by far iv had is. K&N with dyno jet kit in the carbs,that came with the mori lump. set of trumpets, overflow bottle removed for airbox and standard lid and snorkel..
now iv tried lots of different lids on the yellow bike. snorkel.drilled,no snorkel.K&N and its not made a dam bit of difference to it lol...
are any two of these bikes the same??
the older i get,the faster i was
Re: Sock-type air filters
sock-type mess with the airflow going into the funnel, a critical area for airflow. I have had great success with modifying the airbox lid to incorporate the filter element (benefits include include maximized post-filter volume, less restriction to intake air as well as increased headspace above the funnels). Be prepared to do some jetting, however.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/m ... lid-31606/
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/m ... lid-31606/
99 VTR1000F Firestorm, a.k.a. The Carbon Express