tony.mon wrote:In that case it's straightforward.
Just watch out for the small aluminium oil flow restrictors when you separate the two crankcase halves, and the large dowels in the lower crankcase to sump and oil pump pickup joins.
There is one small bolt inside the lower crankcase half to find, when all the peripheral ones have been undone, before they will separate.
And the heads have two small bolts inside the cam chain tunnels.
An engine hoist makes the job easy.
Have fun, Tony
Mate your a legend and a gentleman. Keep you posted .as not doing much this weekend as we have our annual Ulysses club weekend with over 6500 bikes parade through town by police escort ..so big day today to get out and see some ideas.
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Hi tony .think i have found my issue ..as recently 2 weeks ago i had changed exhaust sleeve seal from rear cyl pipe...and im thinking from the that seal over lap has disengaged and sucked into cyl and there fore have found small junk on top of piston with no other explanation of where else could come from. As this piece had found its way to tap spark plug ....
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Well for my first major bike build i come up with this method . Joy of being a truck driver....loll
Elchappo76 wrote:
Mate your a legend and a gentleman. Keep you posted .as not doing much this weekend as we have our annual Ulysses club weekend with over 6500 bikes parade through town by police escort ..so big day today to get out and see some ideas.
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Hi tony .think i have found my issue ..as recently 2 weeks ago i had changed exhaust sleeve seal from rear cyl pipe...and im thinking from the that seal over lap has disengaged and sucked into cyl and there fore have found small junk on top of piston with no other explanation of where else could come from. As this piece had found its way to tap spark plug ....
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Well for my first major bike build i come up with this method . Joy of being a truck driver....loll
Elchappo76 wrote:
Hi tony .think i have found my issue ..as recently 2 weeks ago i had changed exhaust sleeve seal from rear cyl pipe...and im thinking from the that seal over lap has disengaged and sucked into cyl and there fore have found small junk on top of piston with no other explanation of where else could come from. As this piece had found its way to tap spark plug ....
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Well for my first major bike build i come up with this method . Joy of being a truck driver....loll
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I borrowed my little welder trolley ..and think i turn it into eng stand trolley.
Here is what im looking for ...i want to be able yo use this on a weekend basis with the mrs on the back ...as well as ocasional open track day rides..so i need some more chilli put in her . With keeping the bottom end standard ,can i purchase a stage 1 topend kit as i plan on mild head port and polish , custom stainless exh made and rejett carbs . Can this be a viable oproach to my needs ..as well i eill have bottom end balance and new piston rings put in place .
Firstly, you say it had low compression so it wasn't delivering full power anyway, so a rebuild back to standard will feel like a power increase.
But if you want a bit over standard, with that mileage and with bits of metal in the cylinder you will need a rebore anyway.
So you can fit high comp pistons.
That makes a difference even without cams, as the standard compression is quite low.
Ideally you also fit cams but pistons alone will help a fair bit.
I think that piece of metal is too big to have gone in against exhaust gas flow through the valve, so it is likely to be a piece of piston.
Strip the bottom end to find out.
Although your stand lets you move the engine around, a proper one allows you to rotate the engine with only the upper crankcase half attached to the stand at waist height, so you can work on the engine upside down without effort or damage.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
tony.mon wrote:Firstly, you say it had low compression so it wasn't delivering full power anyway, so a rebuild back to standard will feel like a power increase.
But if you want a bit over standard, with that mileage and with bits of metal in the cylinder you will need a rebore anyway.
So you can fit high comp pistons.
That makes a difference even without cams, as the standard compression is quite low.
Ideally you also fit cams but pistons alone will help a fair bit.
I think that piece of metal is too big to have gone in against exhaust gas flow through the valve, so it is likely to be a piece of piston.
Strip the bottom end to find out.
Although your stand lets you move the engine around, a proper one allows you to rotate the engine with only the upper crankcase half attached to the stand at waist height, so you can work on the engine upside down without effort or damage.
Hi .thank you mate .ive jus built this for the moment ..it fuves me enough access all round...havnt use the welder in a while...
tony.mon wrote:Firstly, you say it had low compression so it wasn't delivering full power anyway, so a rebuild back to standard will feel like a power increase.
But if you want a bit over standard, with that mileage and with bits of metal in the cylinder you will need a rebore anyway.
So you can fit high comp pistons.
That makes a difference even without cams, as the standard compression is quite low.
Ideally you also fit cams but pistons alone will help a fair bit.
I think that piece of metal is too big to have gone in against exhaust gas flow through the valve, so it is likely to be a piece of piston.
Strip the bottom end to find out.
Although your stand lets you move the engine around, a proper one allows you to rotate the engine with only the upper crankcase half attached to the stand at waist height, so you can work on the engine upside down without effort or damage.
Hi .thank you mate .ive jus built this for the moment ..it fuves me enough access all round...havnt use the welder in a while...
tony.mon wrote:Firstly, you say it had low compression so it wasn't delivering full power anyway, so a rebuild back to standard will feel like a power increase.
But if you want a bit over standard, with that mileage and with bits of metal in the cylinder you will need a rebore anyway.
So you can fit high comp pistons.
That makes a difference even without cams, as the standard compression is quite low.
Ideally you also fit cams but pistons alone will help a fair bit.
I think that piece of metal is too big to have gone in against exhaust gas flow through the valve, so it is likely to be a piece of piston.
Strip the bottom end to find out.
Although your stand lets you move the engine around, a proper one allows you to rotate the engine with only the upper crankcase half attached to the stand at waist height, so you can work on the engine upside down without effort or damage.
Hi .thank you mate .ive jus built this for the moment ..it fuves me enough access all round...havnt use the welder in a while...
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At my chair height...lol
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And thank you for that advice .i will try find someone here in aus to be able to get my work done.