VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I know that, there are many thread about handle bars on here, but as Wings said in one of there songs, Who needs another silly love song? I loved the grunt of the bike, just so dam uncomfortable at low speed and for me, seemed like one I was not fully in control of the beast. I did not wish to go the the Renthal bars route, though they can look very smart, as many have pictured on the site. Others have fitted VFR 750 bars as some have the 41mm clamps. The ones I brought on eBay ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302200522510? ... EBIDX%3AIT ) So I did a trail fit with the right hand bar as that takes up more space and the cables and brake hose would surely cause the biggest problem. Sure enough brake hose a tat to short. Throttle unit hit's the fairing and pushed it up about 6mm on full left turn, and starter button hits the tank on full right turn.
I would just like to make it clear, this should only be tempted by a person with mechanic competence, as getting it wrong could cost you your life or that of others
So the list of thinks that I done to get clearance at both full extremes and not have to fit any new parts.
Photos are below of some of the differences and the finished job, bar a dam good clean.
1st the brake hose. The pipe that meets brake reserve is bent to the right. This is bent straight, which gave the length so the the retaining bolt on the bottom yoke could be fitted back in. I have seen others use a cable tie to hold it in plate as the hose will not relocate. There is also a tag were the brake hose fits the master cylinder, that also had the be demmaled back to allow the hose to point further forward, as the bar is 12mm further back and the leg is in the way (well for me is was as I like more levers turned down quit a bit).
2nd, the throttle and starter button had to be turned so they did not hit the tank. The parts have locating pins, so the bars needed to be drill it the correct place to lock them in place ( no fun to do, but the bars are Ally not steel which the VTR ones are)). The pins could be ground of, but I don't wish the have the whole throttle unit turning. Non of the original holes in the bars were anywhere near anyway. The clutch side was simpler, but the switch unit still needed to be turned bottom forward so as not to hit the tank.
3rd. the bars all fitted, full lock to lock no bar to tank problems. The only problem left was the contact with the fairing, and on the right bar, pushed the fairing up about 6mm. I took the fairing of that the frame. I ovaled the 2 bolt holes on the front on the frame upwards by 3mm. I then bolted it back up will holding the lifting the frame up to rise the whole unit. I them use a scaffold tube, which I slipped over the frame part that holds the mirrors and bent then and 45 Dec (10mm up and outward). I took careful measurements to make sure it was symmetrical. Fitted the fairing back on then adjusted the 4 Ally brackets were it is joined to the frame( they were never in-line to begin with).
The only other modification that I had to do, was the bar ends. The VTR has 6m threads, the VFR 8m threads, so the bar ends had to be drilled through and the hole for the Allen bolt head taken out to fit (14mm).
Finally the road test today. The wrists are now happy. It does not feel vague when in slow corners now, so I feel that I can start to push it in corners. They are not as steep an angle, so I find it much easier to use the indicator switch now, not having to take may hand of the bar to operate. The last owner did not lean into corners, so the tyre sides by over an inch are untouched. Hopefully I will soon sort that out and use the whole tyre. At speed there is a little more wind pressure on the helmet. One can't have it all. I hope this is of a help to others. Sometimes it is not the doing of a job that is the problem, it is all the little unknowns that one has to find a way round that can be the head ache.
I would just like to make it clear, this should only be tempted by a person with mechanic competence, as getting it wrong could cost you your life or that of others
So the list of thinks that I done to get clearance at both full extremes and not have to fit any new parts.
Photos are below of some of the differences and the finished job, bar a dam good clean.
1st the brake hose. The pipe that meets brake reserve is bent to the right. This is bent straight, which gave the length so the the retaining bolt on the bottom yoke could be fitted back in. I have seen others use a cable tie to hold it in plate as the hose will not relocate. There is also a tag were the brake hose fits the master cylinder, that also had the be demmaled back to allow the hose to point further forward, as the bar is 12mm further back and the leg is in the way (well for me is was as I like more levers turned down quit a bit).
2nd, the throttle and starter button had to be turned so they did not hit the tank. The parts have locating pins, so the bars needed to be drill it the correct place to lock them in place ( no fun to do, but the bars are Ally not steel which the VTR ones are)). The pins could be ground of, but I don't wish the have the whole throttle unit turning. Non of the original holes in the bars were anywhere near anyway. The clutch side was simpler, but the switch unit still needed to be turned bottom forward so as not to hit the tank.
3rd. the bars all fitted, full lock to lock no bar to tank problems. The only problem left was the contact with the fairing, and on the right bar, pushed the fairing up about 6mm. I took the fairing of that the frame. I ovaled the 2 bolt holes on the front on the frame upwards by 3mm. I then bolted it back up will holding the lifting the frame up to rise the whole unit. I them use a scaffold tube, which I slipped over the frame part that holds the mirrors and bent then and 45 Dec (10mm up and outward). I took careful measurements to make sure it was symmetrical. Fitted the fairing back on then adjusted the 4 Ally brackets were it is joined to the frame( they were never in-line to begin with).
The only other modification that I had to do, was the bar ends. The VTR has 6m threads, the VFR 8m threads, so the bar ends had to be drilled through and the hole for the Allen bolt head taken out to fit (14mm).
Finally the road test today. The wrists are now happy. It does not feel vague when in slow corners now, so I feel that I can start to push it in corners. They are not as steep an angle, so I find it much easier to use the indicator switch now, not having to take may hand of the bar to operate. The last owner did not lean into corners, so the tyre sides by over an inch are untouched. Hopefully I will soon sort that out and use the whole tyre. At speed there is a little more wind pressure on the helmet. One can't have it all. I hope this is of a help to others. Sometimes it is not the doing of a job that is the problem, it is all the little unknowns that one has to find a way round that can be the head ache.
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- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 8:45 am
- Location: Modena (Italy)
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I have got one set of vfr handlebar complete with weights I want to sell for a very little price
If someone on the forum is interested PM me
If someone on the forum is interested PM me
- agentpineapple
- Posts: 15124
- Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:16 pm
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
great photos and write up, makes me want to do it, i'd probably need new brake lines for my pfm's tho.
plus i'm not sure my brembo m/c would clear the fairing...
plus i'm not sure my brembo m/c would clear the fairing...
HEY YOU GUYS!!!!!!
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
have you done a decent mileage yet to see how much of a difference they have made.
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
Well done mate, another interesting write up
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I have put "today the road test". All I can say it works fine, and much better to ride. I don't think doing high mileage will change that. It either works or it doesn't.baycat wrote:have you done a decent mileage yet to see how much of a difference they have made.
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
nice write up . i had VFR bars on mine for a year or so and loved them then ended up going the straight bar route.again...
the older i get,the faster i was
- bigtwinthing
- Posts: 5577
- Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Hampshire
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
i had that and bad vibes. I had to but a CBF lol, love it now though. Great 2 up and fun in my own too, i do miss the noise though.
missing the noise, not the vibes. However never say never!
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
Very useful write up mate, how did you bend the banjo ? Use a bit of heat? I guess you could have a line made up as an alternative too.
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I am in Engineering, so used to bend any type of metal and tubing. It is not something that I would recommend unless you know what you are doing. A bit to complicated to explain how I did it, but basically padded grip's and brute force, and no heat. That would damage the hose.podman wrote:Very useful write up mate, how did you bend the banjo ? Use a bit of heat? I guess you could have a line made up as an alternative too.
I now have 2 more thing to do. 1 fit a fuel pump, which I have already brought. 2 sort the exhaust out, way to load, has sort stubby's on at the moment.
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I have done mine and they are so much better
I enjoy riding the bike so much more
I enjoy riding the bike so much more
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
Good job Bert
Nice write up with good clear photo's, well done,
Chris.
Nice write up with good clear photo's, well done,
Chris.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2016 4:46 pm
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
Bought the same pair, I'll be having some of that!
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I know the thread is ancient but if you still have the handlebars I would be interested.tastethefloor wrote: ↑Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:22 am I have got one set of vfr handlebar complete with weights I want to sell for a very little price
If someone on the forum is interested PM me
Re: VTR converted to VFR handle bars-How to
I know the thread is ancient but if you still have the handlebars I would be interested.
[/quote]
Scratch that, I am trying some convertibars.
[/quote]
Scratch that, I am trying some convertibars.