Noticed this when removed the carbs... expert advice needed

[GREG-STORM]

Decided to do the cleaning of the carbs and meanwhile set the TPS as suggested here at 500 ohms.

So i took them off and checked the resistance of the TPS, i was shocked to see a whopping 1076 ohms


Followed the guide here and after some fiddling with the lower leg of the valve i was able to get it at 497 ohms
I bended the leg because i didn't have a dremel at hand, lowest point was 385 ohms
So first mod is done

Next i turned the carbs upside down and noticed this



The other carb has those nozzles as well (also cluttered), they are connected with eachother with a hose and go seperatly to the waterpump.
As i could guess already those cluttered holes aren't normal because coolant has to flow trough it.
But what are they exactly used for ?
Is it to cool down the carbs ?
And most important, what caused it to clutter those holes ?
My guess is that it comes from heated up water and the "chalk" that sticks together....
Any advice is welcome

Just to be sure shouldn't the black be in the COM hole and red in the Ohm ? or is that on Data Hold

[Stepkevh]

Didn't even try it with the com port because i got a reading this way and when i touched the TPS the ohm-readings went up and down.

[GREG-STORM]

we'll certainly get a second opinion as typically Black is Common and Red goes in the V-mA-Ohm socket for everything other than 10Amp inline.

[macdee]

yep black into com

[Stepkevh]

Ok, thx guys, good to know that...
Electricity isn't exactly my field

Allthough it's weird then that i get ohm-readings on the outer ports.
As i said, when i moved the leg on the tps the readings changed as well.

Ow well, will recheck when i have the working tps that tony.mon wil send to me

[Stepkevh]

we'll certainly get a second opinion as typically Black is Common and Red goes in the V-mA-Ohm socket for everything other than 10Amp inline.

Checked on my meter what you said and it gives the same results

[Stepkevh]

you cant tell when a Honda cct is going to give up the will to live
best options are to do the stopper mod or go for the mcct either of these will save you a rebuild

Stopper mod done, was actually a piece of cake
12 mm in the back and 11 in the front

[Stepkevh]

Yes, just reset the cam timing on both cylinders, following the guide in the workshop knowledgebase.

While i did the CCT's i checked the space between valves and cam, all ok, 0,16 and 0,31.
Also did the timings meanwhile.
Front cylinder was ok, both in line.
Back cylinder was 1 teeth of on the inlet and 2 teeth on the exhaust
It really wonders me that the valves didn't hit the piston as it ran a week ago like that.
Allthough i have to say that the backheader got seriously hot in comparission with the front header.
And that must also have been the reason why the back sparkplug is not what it needs to be.
And also with the timing that off no wonder it was all fuel i smelled out of the exhaust pipes.

[VTRDark]

Nice work You can get to approx 3 teeth off before valves start to kiss the piston. Any more than that and your in the danger zone and of course this is dependent on valve clearances too. Have you fitted a front vacuum take off for carb balance while you've have things striped down. It's well worth doing while your in there.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=18430

Note those fuel screw adjustment are only a baseline to get you started. See the following for mixture adjustment. That's where things get fiddly and time consuming.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238528

[Stepkevh]

Yeps, front vacuum take off connected, t-pieced the back one.
Made a carb balancer with a piece of tube and a ball bearing and properly balanced the carbs

I know that these turns on the screws are just baseline.
But when i balanced the carbs i did the blip test and whatever i do with the throttle it returns properly back without hestititaton / dropping.