Do I need to remove the castle nut first and if so anywhere I can pick one up apart from fleabay?
The only instructions I got with the protectors are the very generalised ones attached below.
![Image](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/24/4740d6247085aba4ab71e5ab79958a0d.jpg)
![Image](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/24/d69f91398899df5da05ed4622a8b7cfe.jpg)
Any help appreciated
Thanks
Shah
The allen bolt has flats on it which engage in a threaded adjuster, by turning the allen head you wind in or out the adjuster...It's to do with frame flex do dahs & they have a specific torque setting. As said if you take the nut off the other side the bolt should pull through leaving the adjuster in place.shahwales wrote:Ah ok. So I could just use the new bar which goes through the frame to knock out the existing bolt?
I assume the Allen key head on the pic is used to tighten the bolt to the nut on the brake pedle side?
That is exactly what I was concerned about, not doing such a good job as if they were fitted where mine are.shahwales wrote:These are the bars
I bought the specifically because they were no drill but thinking about it I don't think they will protect the bike as much as drilled ones as the tank may become part of the bike protection lol.
As strange as that may seem, that is exactly how you fit the R&G type as I have, you do remove the front engine mounting bolt that goes right through the frame,cybercarl wrote:I cant see an aftermarket part requiring the removal of an engine mount in it design. Remove one nut or bolt maybe but not a complete bar that runs through the engine. If it does require you to remove the engine mount, once you have undone the nut it will help if you jack the engine up slightly to take the weight off when knocking the bar through.
Do they reallyAs strange as that may seem, that is exactly how you fit the R&G type as I have, you do remove the front engine mounting bolt that goes right through the frame,