cluch slipping

[Theodio]

Hi there!!

Another problem occurred when I took my bike for a hard ride, till redline! Clutch (new only 4000 km friction plates) seems to slip above 6-7000 rpm sometimes especially when the engine runs hot (due road traffic). I suspect the low price clutch discs (60 euros) beacause the make a sound, also the small noise (cold and hot). Or the metal plates?

Please provide me with your valuable knowledge!

[macdee]

What oil are you using

[Theodio]

I'm using Motul 5100 10w40 now, only 1k with that oil. Previous oil was Torco semisynthetic 10w40 (with that oil clutch was slipping more often when hot).

Is there a possibility that the clutch master cylinder has a problem?

[Wicky]

Flush it out and use a semi-synthetic m/c oil.

[sirch345]

Flush it out and use a semi-synthetic m/c oil.

And if that doesn't cure it then I would suspect your cheaper clutch plates as you mention.
The only way the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder could be making the clutch slip is, for one of them not releasing fully. It could be worth also checking the push rod is free, clean and is straight,

Chris.

[Watty]

What oil are you using

That was my first thought!

[Theodio]

I noticed clutch slipping when i used Torco oil.. But I changed it to Motul 5100 semi snthetic special for wet clutche motrcycle with relevant certification.

Ahh! When i engage first gear It sounds bad.

[8541Hawk]

Try bleeding the slave cylinder.

Even though it is counter-intuitive, Air in the clutch system can and does cause clutch slippage.
I say this from personal experience as yes I did have that problem at one time and it was a trapped air bubble.

[Theodio]

Hi felow stromriders!

I came back after a while with updates. Everything is normal on my bike except this slipping. After 6-7k rpm it cannot hold, slips like hell!
So after some digging i came to a conclusion that maybe the metal discs are worn or they're too slippery. I red on the net that in thi case of slipping clutc they take they're metal discs and sand them with sandpaper something.
The're is no pissibility that my discs (10 000 km) are so much worn even though theyre too cheap (low quality) and there isno buble.

Any ideas?

[nt1980]

clutch springs ?

[Pete.L]

Did you soak the friction plates in oil over night before installing them?
I had to do mine twice and that was after fitting harder after market springs. I've done about 25,000kms on them since and not had a single issue.
But I did buy original Honda and not some cheepo's

Pete.l

[fabiostar]

my own bike runs fine but when i change the oil if i even overfill by a few hundred cc it slips high up. drained it down and it runs fine.

[Theodio]

Its fun to e-diagnose! hahaha

Well i'll start, changing the springs because i see through the oil cap, the plates, when I press the clutch lever the springs move and then (still not released the clutch lever) they come back to their fist state.

[VTRDark]

i see through the oil cap, the plates, when I press the clutch lever the springs move and then (still not released the clutch lever) they come back to their fist state.

That sounds normal to me. You will see the plates move as you pull the lever.

As you have changed the friction plates it may be a good idea to go back in and double check everything. Did you put everything back in the right order including having the judder spring the right way around. Why did you change the friction plates.....was it slipping before you changed them I wouldn't rule out the clutch slave/bleeding being the source of your problem. It can take a while to bleed the clutch and the smallest bubbles can cause problems. Try tying the lever back to the bar overnight and then bleed again the next day. Keep an eye on the reservoir level though as it goes down quick and you don't want to have to start all over again.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

i see through the oil cap, the plates, when I press the clutch lever the springs move and then (still not released the clutch lever) they come back to their fist state.

That sounds normal to me. You will see the plates move as you pull the lever.

As you have changed the friction plates it may be a good idea to go back in and double check everything. Did you put everything back in the right order including having the judder spring the right way around. Why did you change the friction plates.....was it slipping before you changed them I wouldn't rule out the clutch slave/bleeding being the source of your problem. It can take a while to bleed the clutch and the smallest bubbles can cause problems. Try tying the lever back to the bar overnight and then bleed again the next day. Keep an eye on the reservoir level though as it goes down quick and you don't want to have to start all over again.

(:-})

I think he means that the clutch engages itself slowly even though the lever is held in.
That's a slave seal problem, or possibly, but less likely, master cylinder seals.