The CCT Issue

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mr.john.coates
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The CCT Issue

Post by mr.john.coates »

I've picked up that there is an issue with the CCT. As a newbie, can you give me a quick overview of anything I need to be worried about?

Thanks in advance.

John
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turbo_billy
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by turbo_billy »

The spring in the original Honda automatic tensioners have a habit of letting go without warning allowing the cam chain to jump the teeth on the sprockets allowing the valves to contact the pistons. NOT GOOD :?
Best thing to do is fit either manual tensioners or do the "stopper mod", basically fitting a rod into the originals that does not allow the tensioner to wind all the way out in the event of failure. Search the workshop section for more details.
Apart from that and the regulator rectifier failure with the unfinned original unit these motors are pretty bulletproof. :thumbup:
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VTRDark
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by VTRDark »

+1

Turbo has pretty much covered it there :thumbup:

Mr john it's the one thing that should take priority as the original Honda CCT's can give way without warning at any time.

Liking the avatar. :Smoke2:

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hugeduck
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by hugeduck »

just changed mine to manual, its an easy enough job mate, just follow the instructions on here (i also had a haynes for pictures) and dont skip anything and its easy peasy :thumbup:

two tips
1. take the alternater nut off first, becuase mine didnt want to come off half way through the job :whatever
2. use lock tight on the tensioner nuts, theres a rubber washer on it but that wont last long

jobs a jobbed :thumbup:
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VTRDark
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by VTRDark »

Use the Haynes for pictures only :thumbup: but don't trust it as It's not always 100% correct or accurate. View the first post here http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... es#p214768

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mr.john.coates
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by mr.john.coates »

turbo_billy wrote:The spring in the original Honda automatic tensioners have a habit of letting go without warning allowing the cam chain to jump the teeth on the sprockets allowing the valves to contact the pistons. NOT GOOD
Not good at all!
I will be taking Carl's advice and getting it looked at asap. I'm a reasonable bike mechanic, and tackled what sounds like similar work in the past so I assume it's a job an owner can undertake? Do you need any special tools?
cybercarl wrote:...Liking the avatar. :Smoke2: ...
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turbo_billy
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by turbo_billy »

No special tools required. As long as you are confident enough to set the timing correctly before you remove the CCT`s and the rocker cover off to check tension then you should be good to go.
Follow the instructions in the Workshop Knowledgebase to the letter and you should have no problems.
Tank and airbox off and you should have enough access to the CCT`s. Two things to watch for, the plugs on the alternator casing which you need to remove for the timing marks are made of soft cheese so wouldn`t be surprised if they get chewed up (hopefully you should be ok though) and be sure to replace any fuel/vacuum lines you take off the tank back in the right place as if not it causes all sorts of running issues.( as does trapping any lines when you put the tank back on.)
There have been several posts with pictures recently on doing CCT`s so have a quick read/look and make sure you are happy. If you do have a go there is always someone happy to answer any questions if you get stuck.
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markycee
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by markycee »

I have had my manual CCT's in for a year now and never adjusted them. Not really sure how and took a guess when I fitted mine. Someone told me to adjust until you could hear the chain rattling then go back the other way until it stops. To be honest i'm not sure how you are supposed to hear anything over the engine and exhaust noise. Anyone got any tips on how to check and re-adjust these things??
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VTRDark
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Re: The CCT Issue

Post by VTRDark »

When I fitted mine I had the rocker covers off both cylinders and measured that there was 9mm slack from centre to centre on the chain. Measured the slack from in between the too cam sprockets where it has most play. I had no reason to do it by sound. As far as adjustment goes later on after many miles have been done, I think it's probably best to check every 20,000 -30,000 miles or so. So once they are done they can just be left. It's not like they need to be adjusted after a couple thou or something.

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