Hi all, just changed all fluids on the bike and while doing the front brake I noticed the diaphragm looked like it had been pinched at its base? Is it dead? Brakes are still pretty spongy if this has given up the ghost could it be that compressing when I pull the lever?
Cheers
Karl
Front master cylinder
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Front master cylinder
dont think it will make much difference tbh karl... the brake should work ok with the lid off.
if it is fkt i may have a spare in the garage
if they feel spongy there is still air in the system - did you check the pistons move freely
if it is fkt i may have a spare in the garage
if they feel spongy there is still air in the system - did you check the pistons move freely
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Re: Front master cylinder
Got new pads on order so I'll check them then. Urgh brakes, chain & sprockets, ccts and probably head bearings going to be an expensive spring!
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Sent from my HTC Wildfire using Tapatalk
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Front master cylinder
shop around.Karl_h wrote:going to be an expensive spring!
these are only 67p for a pack of 10.
the head bearings btw - £30 for kyoto taper bearings from bitsforbikes.
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Re: Front master cylinder
Haha very good!
Yeah problem for me with bearings is I haven't got any suitable stands so going to be a garage job I think. Are there any easy methods of getting the wheels up without stands?
Yeah problem for me with bearings is I haven't got any suitable stands so going to be a garage job I think. Are there any easy methods of getting the wheels up without stands?
Re: Front master cylinder
Agreed. 
Put something heavy (in my case, a toolbox full of old spanners) on the rear seat, then jack under the sump (with a piece of wood plank sideways between the sump and jack to protect the sump. Now once the fornt wheel is up, place blocks/bricks under each end of the plank and lower the plank onto them. Now strap or rope over the saddle to the plank ends, et voila).
That should get the front wheel clear of the ground, and as soon as you remove the front wheel there's less weight on the front and it'll all balance there ok.
But having a mate/gf/significant other/friend/ passing stranger/Jehovah's Witness hold the bike steady is still a good idea.
Sure there's noone nearby who you can borrow a rear paddock stand from?
It makes the whole job lots easier.
Put something heavy (in my case, a toolbox full of old spanners) on the rear seat, then jack under the sump (with a piece of wood plank sideways between the sump and jack to protect the sump. Now once the fornt wheel is up, place blocks/bricks under each end of the plank and lower the plank onto them. Now strap or rope over the saddle to the plank ends, et voila).
That should get the front wheel clear of the ground, and as soon as you remove the front wheel there's less weight on the front and it'll all balance there ok.
But having a mate/gf/significant other/friend/ passing stranger/Jehovah's Witness hold the bike steady is still a good idea.
Sure there's noone nearby who you can borrow a rear paddock stand from?
It makes the whole job lots easier.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Front master cylinder
ok, this is how i lift the front on mine...
that's a scaf bar in the garage loft hatch, between the joists, with good ratchet straps looped over
then clip the hook under the yoke and ratchet it up.
works really well.
another way, if you don't have a loft hatch is use a stepladder like an A frame and use the straps again.
here's a mate's zx6r lifted this way.
works really well, nice & stable & gives good access to bits & pieces.
front stand is on my list - tight butt santa didnt bring me one
*whichever way you choose to lift the front wheel, be sure to loosen the spindle nut and caliper allen bolts before you get it in the air & only torque them back up proper once it's securely back on terra firma.
to do the head bearings you would probably need to remove the tank & lift it by the frame, or maybe the hole under the headstock.
you will need a dremel and some cut-off discs to get the bottom race off though and also some good grease as you probably won't get grease with the bearing kit.
and dont forget you will need to retension them 2-3 times over the first few weeks - they do bed in quite a bit.
there's a guide here somewhere on tensioning the head bearings. read it, as improperly tightened bearings will not only fail the mot, but are extremely un-nerving on the road, bad steering, knocking under hard braking, tank slappers etc....
when re=tensioning you can get at the C nut by just unclipping the bars and lifting the top yoke off a few inch, then drive the nut with a strong screwy.
easy job to do, but make sure you get it right.
that's a scaf bar in the garage loft hatch, between the joists, with good ratchet straps looped over
then clip the hook under the yoke and ratchet it up.
works really well.
another way, if you don't have a loft hatch is use a stepladder like an A frame and use the straps again.
here's a mate's zx6r lifted this way.
works really well, nice & stable & gives good access to bits & pieces.
front stand is on my list - tight butt santa didnt bring me one
*whichever way you choose to lift the front wheel, be sure to loosen the spindle nut and caliper allen bolts before you get it in the air & only torque them back up proper once it's securely back on terra firma.
to do the head bearings you would probably need to remove the tank & lift it by the frame, or maybe the hole under the headstock.
you will need a dremel and some cut-off discs to get the bottom race off though and also some good grease as you probably won't get grease with the bearing kit.
and dont forget you will need to retension them 2-3 times over the first few weeks - they do bed in quite a bit.
there's a guide here somewhere on tensioning the head bearings. read it, as improperly tightened bearings will not only fail the mot, but are extremely un-nerving on the road, bad steering, knocking under hard braking, tank slappers etc....
when re=tensioning you can get at the C nut by just unclipping the bars and lifting the top yoke off a few inch, then drive the nut with a strong screwy.
easy job to do, but make sure you get it right.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
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firestarter1977
- Posts: 197
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 6:35 pm
- Location: sheffield
Re: Front master cylinder
where in the uk are you pal ?
if your near barnsley you can borrow my abba type stand ..
failing that i could be persuaded to fabricate one for you in return for beer tokens
mark
if your near barnsley you can borrow my abba type stand ..
failing that i could be persuaded to fabricate one for you in return for beer tokens
mark
the thunder rolls on!!!
Re: Front master cylinder
Cheers mark that's a great offer. Luckily for me I convinced the missus to buy me an abba for my birthday should be here this weekend!! Whoop whoop!
Re: Front master cylinder
Must................resist.............................abba.............jokes............................... 
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Front master cylinder
[quote="benny hedges"]ok, this is how i lift the front on mine...
that's a scaf bar in the garage loft hatch,
Benny must be the only person I know that has a fancy ceciling in there garage
that's a scaf bar in the garage loft hatch,
Benny must be the only person I know that has a fancy ceciling in there garage
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benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Front master cylinder
lol yeh!!! it used to be a show house when the estate was built, and i think the garage was like an office.pariah wrote:benny hedges wrote:ok, this is how i lift the front on mine...
that's a scaf bar in the garage loft hatch,
Benny must be the only person I know that has a fancy ceciling in there garage
best thing is, it has a nice double radiator in there so the bikes dont get too cold.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.