Question re manual CCT intallation

[consul]

Hi All
Please excuse this potentially stooopid question, but if there is nothing wrong with the cam chain timing as it is, and I am only replacing the CCTs for peace of mind, why can't I just remove the old one and insert the new one. Does the chain jump teeth when the CCT is removed or something? I can't understand all the work needed just to replace a working CCT with a manual one - why can't we just remove the old one and insert the new one? Again, soory for dumb question, and I am doing mine today with all 5 hours of instructions (unless someone replies really quickly here with an answer advising that we don't need to do all that timing malarky). Cheers, Consul

[Pete.L]

Hay Consul
The valve springs are pretty strong and once the tension is released when the cct is removed it can jump teeth.
Best to do it by the book and not make any mistakes, it a lot cheeper in the long run


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tony.mon]

Agree with Pete.
With most engines the chain is too short so that, even when the tensioner is removed, it can't get slack enough to jump over the teeth on the upper sprocket.
With these engines, it can, and probably will.

[consul]

and one other thing. I'm no mechanic, but neither am I complete muppet either.
1. 5 hours to do this job. pffffffff - more like 10
2. Can be done without removing the carbies - I truly cannot see how this is posssible as there is a plastic cover preventing access to eveything so unless you remove the carbs, good luck getting to the front cylinder/head.

Don't mean to moan, just frustrated its now in pieces in my apartment's downstairs carpar (safe, but still....)

[MacV2]

and one other thing. I'm no mechanic, but neither am I complete muppet either.
1. 5 hours to do this job. pffffffff - more like 10
2. Can be done without removing the carbies - I truly cannot see how this is posssible as there is a plastic cover preventing access to eveything so unless you remove the carbs, good luck getting to the front cylinder/head.

Don't mean to moan, just frustrated its now in pieces in my apartment's downstairs carpar (safe, but still....)

Theres a difference between removing & moving.

Undo the carb retaining bands on the intake rubbers. A long crosshead screwdriver is required, rear is fairly accesible, the front there should be a hole in the side of that plastic cover.

Once loose pop the carbs off & you can leave them conected just move out of the way...You may need to pull the water pipes off the carbs & some coolent will escape but dont worry it wont be much.

Now the Plastic cover, the heat sheild, can be removed. There is a small bit on the right where the throtle cables pass through, it's held in by a trim clip,remove this, noting how it fits. The cover can be removed now but it is in tight, basicaly just clips in you have to be a bit brutal with it to get it out...

Once out jobs done carry on.

[MacV2]

Oh IIRC there is a second trim clip on the left side as well...

[sirch345]

Oh IIRC there is a second trim clip on the left side as well...

Yes there is a second trim piece on the left side as well you're right Mac.

Take some photo's as you go on your mobile phone for reference points on re-assembly is my tip

Chris.

[popkat]

I've done it a couple of times without removing the carbs so it is possible, Now though I pop the carbs off their rubbers and take the plastic plate out as the only issue with not popping the carbs off is locating the upper/rear 2 front cam cover bolts, they can be fiddly to get started on the thread when your reaching in front the front.. Either way job takes about 3 hours to do with care and attention, on a nice clean bike can be a bit quicker on a filthy one a bit longer.



A helpful tip for you. As you have the oil cooler and it's bracket off to do the job, when you put the airbox back on the hose to the left front underside is easier to fit if you leave it off the cam cover, pop it back on after airbox is all fitted up, you'll need some long nose pliers for the clip.




.

[tony.mon]

Another tip: brush or pressure wash the rectangular cross section bar running sideways across the frame in front of the airbox before opening or removing screws from the front cam cover. If not, any dirt and grit you disturb drops into the engine...

I've never bothered disturbing the carb heater coolant hoses from the carbs; there's enough room to push the carbs to the right to give access.
But they definitely need to be unseated to remove the heatsheild.

[sirch345]

I've never bothered disturbing the carb heater coolant hoses from the carbs; there's enough room to push the carbs to the right to give access.
But they definitely need to be unseated to remove the heatsheild.

Same here,

Chris.

[consul]

sooo....I have installed the rear manual CCT and have managed to put off the whole carb front cylinder for 3 weekends. Toook me over an hour last weekend getting the wretched fairing off (remember, this is my first time - my VTR is new to me). Gotta say of the 9 bikes I've owned, all previous 8 in-line 4s were a LOT easier to work on. Anyway, tomorrow (and Sunday no doubt) are D-Day for the carbies etc.

On an unrelated topic - is the standard chain a 530 or less? I bought a 'race' kit and the DID Gold X ring chain is 520 and rated up to "800cc". They kindly refunded the cost of the chain and let me keep it when I complained (very thoughtful those folks in blighty), and I have a 15 front and 43 rear sprocket so am wondering whether to buy a new kit entirely, or try this out? Or can I use a 530 chain with these sprockets (somehow I think that's a dumb question but if you don't ask.....) Thoughts on longevity if I use this kit as is? My understanding of race gear (they told me the sprockets brand is used in BSB, WSB etc) is it is mostly made to last 200km of complete thrashing then get replaced. Thoughts please?

[tony.mon]

You can't mix 520 and 530 parts. Yes, a 520 set will be fine, after all 100bhp is achievable with a 600 these days. It's lots lighter, too.
But it won't last quite as long.
I'd fit it, and see how long it lasts. An oiler helps a lot

[consul]

Thnx for the answer on the drive chain and sprox.
CCT - Given you all seem to have no prob getting the carbs moved in order to get access to front valve cover, I'm wondering before I go down that path rather than full removal (which I fear - I hate throttle cables etc) just how easy the return journey is - i.e. is it a complete bas%$rd of a job wiggling it all back into place (especially the plastic cover and heat shield)? Also - from memory I recall seeing some instructions on this somewhere on this fine site - any ideas where? My searches turn up all sorts of nonsense so I don't much bother anymore. I'm going to re-read VTRDark's PDF manual (I printed it) one last time, and head downstairs to attempt the front cylinder manual CCT. Wish me luck - from Oz. (oh - if you're wondering how I will see any replies - many cups of tea is how)
Consul

[consul]

Well, after swearing a lot at the previous owner, I eventually put it all back together, put in the key and......nothing. Bugger. I tried this for a few minutes and sat down with my heart dropping - then I recalled motorbikes have a kill switch (I just never use them) - I flicked it and it started first hit of the button. Phew, must have knocked it!. No weird cam noises, so I think (hope) I got the tensions right. Took it for a quick spin and it started smoking - oil on the rear ex pipe coming out of rear CCT - I used the new paper gasket it came with AND gasket silicone - bugger!!.

Another wierd side-effect of all this was the outrageous burbling and popping noise it now makes when backing off/closed throttle. I did have to replace the little sub air filter thingies in the air box which I did by making 2x sponge ones, so besides that, or the cam chain itself, I have no idea why so much popping and burbling on a closed throttle (It used to do a nice little bit, but now it is 4 or 5 times as much!). Any ideas chaps? - and many thanks in advance

[Kev L]

Sounds like it’s sucking air somewhere mate. I would revisit all the joints and check them.