Nut splitter on header

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thrumbler
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Nut splitter on header

Post by thrumbler »

Hi all,
I found a crack in my standard exhaust at a weld where the pipe forks for the silencers. It's cracked about half way around the pipe. So the exhaust has to come off and I've loosened all the fasteners except the front lower header stud nut.
Seems like I should get a nut splitter on it, but the 10mm nut has a wider base of about 14mm. Should I use the splitter over the wide base or just use it on the main, narrower, 10mm part?
I found a post about using a Dremel on the base but not clear as to whether that meant to just take off enough to flatten one side of the nut or more.
I don't have a nut splitter yet, or a Dremel for that matter, and TBH I'm not keen on taking a cutting tool anywhere near the cylinder head if I can help it.
Any advice gratefully received. Thank you for a fantastic forum. Been lurking around for a while picking up great advice which has kept me on the road (thanks to Chris for the stopper mod )
Best wishes
Jim
Last edited by thrumbler on Sun Oct 21, 2018 6:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
thrumbler
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by thrumbler »

IMG_20181019_133233.jpg
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lloydie
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Nut splitter on header

Post by lloydie »

Grind the lip flat all the way round so the splitter cuts into it .
Not worth the risk doing half and also keep soaking it in wd40 or gt85 or other penetrative fluid .
thrumbler
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by thrumbler »

Thanks for the quick reply Lloydie.
I've been putting Plus Gas on it for the last week, but it's not playing nice like the others.
I'll order the tools and get to it.
Jim
BrianC
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by BrianC »

I have used a dremel with a well used ie small diameter and cut as far through the nut as you can then using a small but very sharp cold chisel and split it

Has worked every time for me and I have taken two fronts off
thrumbler
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by thrumbler »

Thanks Brian, good to have another option. I guess a nut splitter could be used like a cold chisel to prise open the cut in your method.
Jim
BrianC
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by BrianC »

Nps Jim

I just struggled to get a splitter in correct position

I voluntarily took the first exhaust off to refurbish it when he did the mcct, the second one i blught a storm with a failed front cct so the head had to come off - but i prevailed !!!!
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MacV2
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by MacV2 »

if its the std long flanged nut, when I did mine nut splitter as far down as it would go, then I used a cold chisle to open the split nut & the flange just gave way...

Header off then I used a 7mm stud extractor tool & the stud came out... Plus gas is far better to ues for this than wd-40 BTW...

Also with the stud extractor a tad of tightening up force to brake the corosion then undo...

Replaced the studs with stainlees steel jobies...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beta-Tools-1 ... 4b522e5a81

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-VTR-10 ... :rk:5:pf:0
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
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fabiostar
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by fabiostar »

those front nuts really are a pain in the ass.. iv taken to spinning mine off every few months and coppa slipping them just so it doesnt happen again.
the older i get,the faster i was :lol:
tony.mon
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by tony.mon »

MacV2 wrote: Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:38 pm

Also with the stud extractor a tad of tightening up force to brake the corosion then undo...

How are you going to do that, Mac?
It will just unscrew itself from the broken stud.....
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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MacV2
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by MacV2 »

tony.mon wrote: Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:30 pm
MacV2 wrote: Sun Oct 21, 2018 9:38 pm

Also with the stud extractor a tad of tightening up force to brake the corosion then undo...

How are you going to do that, Mac?
It will just unscrew itself from the broken stud.....


Who said broken stud ?
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
thrumbler
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by thrumbler »

Despite all your good advice and thinking I was taking all the time it needed I still managed to f--k it up and snap it.
After heating and using Plus Gas repeatedly I managed to deform the nut a bit with the splitter and got it moving. Wiggling back and forth it started to undo but it was squeaky tight. I should have continued with your advice and got back on it with the splitter but I thought I had it beaten. I guess I got impatient without realising and after getting it turned a couple of times by wiggling back and forth a bit at a time I was just using too much force and it snapped. I was close and I'm gutted, I was determined to not do this.

There is about 7mm proud of the head; just the tapered section plus one and a bit turns of the M7 thread.
I'm trying to work out probabilities of success with the remaining options. And if one fails does that prevent using another method.

Weld a nut on. Or weld a flat piece on to use as a lever. I don't have a welder. I see Lidl/Amazon sell one for £60 - no idea if I could I learn to do this job.

Drill it out\Easy Out. A nut will go on the remaining thread a turn and a bit. So I could use a long nut as a guide and use a transfer punch or a piece of 6mm tube as a guide through the nut to make a centred pilot hole.

I have some Irwin Power Grip Screw Extractors and the 3/16" one might do it. I've used the bigger Irwin Bolt Grip Nut Removers before but there is a chance there is not enough to bite into and it just removes metal. As the remaining piece is tapered this is the only tool that actually grips it.

Cutting a few mm away from the cyclinder head around the stud. Making ~10mm visible instad of 7.

I'm assuming spark erosion cannot be done without the head being removed, but it would be nice.

Not sure if the header will stay put enough using one stud to allow it to be ridden.
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KermitLeFrog
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by KermitLeFrog »

I filed a couple of flats on mine and clamped mole grips on it when it was very hot (propane torch). Wiggle wiggle, more heat, wiggle wiggle, more heat .... repeat. Took some time but it came out.
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cheekykev
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by cheekykev »

I ended up drilling and tapping a new thread into the head in situ with one on mine, you just need someone with a keen eye to watch over you to make sure you're drilling at the correct angle while you drill the old one out.
The bit that's in the head is 8mm standard thread and the exhaust stud end is 7mm for that very special Honda long nut.
These studs are hard so you will need a cobalt drill tapping size for 8mm is 6.8mm
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fabiostar
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Re: Nut splitter on header

Post by fabiostar »

if it was me, and it has been, stay away from them dam easy outs, if they break you are in a world of sh1t..
the older i get,the faster i was :lol:
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