fork cartridge question

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tastethefloor
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fork cartridge question

Post by tastethefloor »

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/pN8TA038xYEBtTcl1

Hi,
anyone know the standard-original distance from the bottom of the thread...or how many turns this steel nut must complete to lock the cap on the top?
Last edited by tastethefloor on Mon Nov 27, 2017 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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cheekykev
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by cheekykev »

When I did mine, it was 3mm from the the bottom of the nut to the tube end, ie 3mm of thread still visable.
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tastethefloor
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by tastethefloor »

cheekykev wrote: Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:46 am When I did mine, it was 3mm from the the bottom of the nut to the tube end, ie 3mm of thread still visable.
ok thank u
I try with 3mm
fulviogsx
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by fulviogsx »

its better one turn more than one turn less.too few turns and the screw on the top will not work...
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AMCQ46
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by AMCQ46 »

what I do is put the damping adjuster screw to the level that is
a) the same for both forks
b) sitting just about flush with the top or the preload adjuster [I don't like to see the damper screw sticking out too much, but this is just personal preference.]

then you move the lock nut on the cartridge down out of the way and spin the fork top cap down by hand till it bottoms out. this happens when the damper adjuster tip is fully seated into the valve, so it is the damping fully in position. Then I back off by less than 1/4 turn so I don't put any undue force on the damper tip when I am tightening it all up. then spin the locknut back up and lock it in place [you don't need to go super tight].

done
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VTRDark
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by VTRDark »

As Al says but undo the preload adjuster first and then from flush with the top of the preload undo the rebound screw one turn out and then srew the cap on and tighten the locknut off. If you have refreshed your fork oil remember to bleed off any excess air out of the damper system first before reffitting the cap by pumping the rod up and down a few times. Nice and slow or you will end up with a facefull of oil. :thumbup:
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tastethefloor
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by tastethefloor »

thank u guys, very useful information
cheers :beer:
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8541Hawk
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by 8541Hawk »

Old post but there is a "procedure" for installing fork caps.

When you are ready to install the caps and damping rod, first turn the adjuster in until it is flush with the cap.
Put the "dot" in whatever position you like, towards the flats or long side of stock forks, forward, backwards. It doesn't matter, whatever makes you happy.

Now turn the adjuster out 2 turns.
Install the fork cap and lightly turn it in until the damping rod bottoms.
Turn the cap out 1 turn.

Check you are at 1 turn by turning in the adjuster. Move the cap as needed to get as close to 1 turn until seated as you can with the damping rod.
Tighten the jam nut.

That's it and it takes longer to write it out than to do both forks.
Now both damping rods are set the same and makes adjustments much easier. Plus the dots line up :D
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Wicky
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Re: fork cartridge question

Post by Wicky »

That ties in with Roger
Retightened the fork caps and set the rebound rods according to Roger. See below:

1) Wind the pre-load adjuster fully out.
2) Screw the Rebound fully in (flush with the cap) and then out 2 turns
3) Screw the cap onto the damper rod until it touches the lock nut
4) Screw the Rebound adjuster IN. If it will not turn in wind the lock screw and the cap UP the damper rod and try again until the Rebound screw touches after 1 turn in.
5) If the Rebound screw does not connect after 2 turns in, wind the lock screw DOWN the damper rod and try again until the Rebound screw touches after 1 turn in.
6) When you have achieved the correct position lock the cap and lock screw together using 14mm spanners<
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