Silent sprockets or not

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KatanaKid
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Silent sprockets or not

Post by KatanaKid »

Hi,

Am going to fit new chain and sprockets to my ride. It's been a while since I've done this on my bikes (I don't think X-ring chains were around back then, only O-ring). Wondering if anyone has used or is using silent sprockets and do you find them to be an improvement over steel?

Anything I should look out for or be aware of when removing the sprockets?

Is it difficult to get the front sprocket off?

What is your preference Ognibene or AFM sprockets?

Thanks in advance
Maybe swearing will help
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cheekykev
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by cheekykev »

For road use either will be fine, I've used both, no problem, currently got Afam on mine, no problem, plus 530 X-Ring chain.
I was advised to make sure to get a 530 chain for road use.
I've used silent sprockets before and never saw any benefit.
When you come to put the clutch cylinder back on over the front sprocket, don't be alarmed to find you'll have to bleed and bleed and bleed the system to get the clutch to work again. When I did mine I was told by members on here that it's quite normal for it to happen just keep bleeding, and true enough they were right, it will work, just stick at it.
Make sure you clean and put the clutch push rod back the same way, and clean all the crud off the front sprocket cover and housing, you'll probably find lots of it.
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KatanaKid
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by KatanaKid »

Thanks Kev.

That front cover does look a bit more complex to deal with than my old bikes. That's great advice, I'll remember to bleed a lot and be patient.
Maybe swearing will help
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VTRDark
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by VTRDark »

Remove the clutch lever before removing the sprocket cover and you wont have to bleed. As for the weight of the chain it comes down to whether you want something for race use so has less weight but is not as strong and does not have the longevity or whether you want something for street/touring use, more weight and more longevity. Whether silent sprockets make much difference or not is negligible especially if running loud cans.

For the front sprocket bolt you will need either a good breaker bar / torque wrench with long handle and have someone sit on the bike with the brakes applied, maybe put the bike in gear too though I'm not a fan of putting unnecessary stress on the gearbox or use a rattle gun. Use threadlock on the thread and don't over tighten it as you don't want to strip the threads when tightening back up.

The best thing about this job is being able to get in and clean all that crud out and having everything clean and shiny. I use Surfex HD along with a stiff brush. I cant recommend that stuff enough and it's eco-friendly. Don't unnecessarily use neat though...you can water down up to 90% water, a 60/40 or 70/30 mix should be quite sufficient for most uses.

Bilt Hamber Surfex HD

Consider fitting a Scotoiler too. They really increase the longevity of you chain and keep things lubed.
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fulviogsx
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by fulviogsx »

DON'T use Ognibene silent sprockets.
They are made on their own. before they were distributors of sunstar,but after sunstar decided to enter in the market with the chain kit,Ognibene abandoned (or was abandoned)from sunstar,and decided to produce with his brand the sprockets (production in outsourcing)for his need.
They are wrong:the rubber silent strip is positioned somwtimes too high so the chain don t fit completely in his place.result:durin use the chain push against the vertical side od the theet,destroying herself.
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by fulviogsx »

Destroyed chain:
https://db.tt/d5gEGj7LMB
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Wicky
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by Wicky »

I've got Ognibene sprockets fitted on my Storm & Transalp (with DID HD chains) - no problems after 20,000 miles to date between them.
Last edited by Wicky on Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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sirch345
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by sirch345 »

Something I have thought about before when it comes time to fit a new chain. It would be helpful if you could purchase a new chain for our Storms already riveted together as in one continuous loop, seeing as you don't need to have the chain split to fit unless you have fitted a swingarm brace. It would save having to purchase a chain riveter or taking it to a garage for them to do.

Does anyone know if you can buy a chain in one continuous loop :?:
fulviogsx wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:22 pm Destroyed chain:
https://db.tt/d5gEGj7LMB
8O I've never seen anything like that before,

Chris.
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by fulviogsx »

Wicky wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:34 pm I've got Ognibene sprockets fitted on my Storm & Transalp - no problems after 20,000 miles between them.
I destroyed 3 chain.I bypasses dealer and distributors and went to ognibene in Bologna to discuss with their techniciens
The problem comes whe you tight correctly the chain.if you hold the chain little more loose than specifics,nothing happens.
The rubber strips are not perfectely concentrics.this means not to have the same free play in every part (like the oval in the wear transmissions).the strips are made of hard rubber and,even if under pressure,don t let the chain go in his correct place.this is way you have necessary give more free play in order to obtain the minimum tightening admissed from the manufacturer along all the chain
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Wicky
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by Wicky »

I installed mine with new chains, and I run, especially for the Transalp, the chain tension on the slightly loose side - more to avoid drive shaft problems than compensate for the sprocket.
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VTRDark
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by VTRDark »

sirch345 wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:44 pm Something I have thought about before when it comes time to fit a new chain. It would be helpful if you could purchase a new chain for our Storms already riveted together as in one continuous loop, seeing as you don't need to have the chain split to fit unless you have fitted a swingarm brace. It would save having to purchase a chain riveter or taking it to a garage for them to do.

Does anyone know if you can buy a chain in one continuous loop :?:
fulviogsx wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:22 pm Destroyed chain:
https://db.tt/d5gEGj7LMB
8O I've never seen anything like that before,

Chris.
Now that is something I would be interested in too. I never like riveting my chains as it plays in the back of my mind if I have done it securely or not. It's a bit like leaving the house and wondering if I closed the front door properly or not. I've never had a chain fail on me and it's not something I want to experience.
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fulviogsx
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by fulviogsx »

If you buy the OE Honda part is countinuously looped.but you have to take off the swing arm to install it
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Wicky
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by Wicky »

fulviogsx wrote: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:46 am If you buy the OE Honda part is countinuously looped.but you have to take off the swing arm to install it
No need to remove the swingarm - only need to remover the footpeg hanger to install a looped chain riveted off the bike, as the stock VTR's frame doesn't extend down to support the swing arm spindle (job done by the engine casing).
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fulviogsx
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by fulviogsx »

Wicky wrote: Thu Sep 21, 2017 7:34 am
fulviogsx wrote: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:46 am If you buy the OE Honda part is countinuously looped.but you have to take off the swing arm to install it
No need to remove the swingarm - only need to remover the footpeg hanger to install a looped chain riveted off the bike, as the stock VTR's frame doesn't extend down to support the swing arm spindle (job done by the engine casing).
Right my fault.
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KatanaKid
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Re: Silent sprockets or not

Post by KatanaKid »

VTRDark wrote: Wed Sep 20, 2017 2:28 pm Remove the clutch lever before removing the sprocket cover and you wont have to bleed. As for the weight of the chain it comes down to whether you want something for race use so has less weight but is not as strong and does not have the longevity or whether you want something for street/touring use, more weight and more longevity. Whether silent sprockets make much difference or not is negligible especially if running loud cans.

For the front sprocket bolt you will need either a good breaker bar / torque wrench with long handle and have someone sit on the bike with the brakes applied, maybe put the bike in gear too though I'm not a fan of putting unnecessary stress on the gearbox or use a rattle gun. Use threadlock on the thread and don't over tighten it as you don't want to strip the threads when tightening back up.

The best thing about this job is being able to get in and clean all that crud out and having everything clean and shiny. I use Surfex HD along with a stiff brush. I cant recommend that stuff enough and it's eco-friendly. Don't unnecessarily use neat though...you can water down up to 90% water, a 60/40 or 70/30 mix should be quite sufficient for most uses.

Bilt Hamber Surfex HD

Consider fitting a Scotoiler too. They really increase the longevity of you chain and keep things lubed.

All your comments are really appreciated thank you.

Interesting that about taking off the clutch lever to avoid bleeding, i'll do that. How did you find that out? Also is it a left hand thread on the front sprocket bolt? Last year my engineer friend and me were trying to remove the harmonic balancer bolt on my 4wd and we were sure the picture in the manual showed a left hand thread; it wasn't. Our big bar and big hammer couldn't remove that bolt no matter how hard we tried. We did manage to make it really tight for the mechanic.

I have found a place in the UK that will supply the chain already cut to length, one kit they sell has a joining tool included. When removing the chain i have been reading that a lot of riders are taking to them with a grinder. Anyone grinding off?
Maybe swearing will help
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