Changing wheel bearings tomorrow - quick bit of advice needed

[jchesshyre]

So, my disc-side rear wheel bearing failed quite spectacularly yesterday. For a couple of weeks I've had a weird metallic crack sound when putting the bike on the side stand after riding it which I thought might be the suspension but was almost definitely this bearing. Had to ride the bike home yesterday with the most awful screeching, banging and grinding sounds coming from the back end and the rear wheel has a couple of mm of play in it now. I can clearly see it's the RH bearing.

I've never changed a wheel bearing before (believe it or not I did 120,000 on my CB500 and never had one go) although have changed sprocket carrier bearings twice with success and generally do all servicing on my bikes myself, so I'm handy enough with tools.

I've read through the various posts on here about changing them and have noted advice about boiling water and freezers, but I just wanted to see if anyone can advise me on the best kind/shape of drift to use for getting them out. I need to buy the bits I need in town today so I don't have to waste time going out tomorrow. I'll be buying the bearings (obviously) and a lump hammer (I only have a smaller one which really won't do) and the only drift I have is a roughly 1cm wide 12cm long piece of aluminium alloy dowel. Will I need to get something else, maybe longer and with a sharp-ish end rather than just a piece of dowel?

Will post a success (or failure...) update tomorrow but would greatly appreciate any advice about drifts. As usual with me this seems to have turned into a very long post when I could have just written 'what kind of drift should I use for changing a wheel bearing?'......

[VTR Phoenix]

A tapered drift, hit one side then the other and keep going till it pops out. I would replace both though and not just the one.

Use the old bearings to knock the new ones in and don't for get the inner spacer when putting back together.

[Wicky]

Delboy's Garage, Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement. >

and don't forget new dust seals

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces ... STORM.html

Try and buy bearings & seals from local bearing specialist shop for half/third the cost that Honda charge.

[jchesshyre]

Thank you

Was certainly going to replace both bearings and also the seals.

I'll see what I can find around town re. drifts.

I'm just concerned by a couple of posts I've seen saying there's not enough of the race protruding to get purchase on with a drift...but I'll just have to find a nice sharp one and hope I can do it. I certainly don't have any welding equipment or anything to get some kind of blob of something on there.

And I will triple-check not to forget the spacer - wow that would produce some interesting language if that happened.

[MacV2]

You dont need a sharp one...! A blunt flat end will be fine 10mm max. There is a tube, inner spacer that you have to move around when doing the first side. Once that bearing is out the spacer comes out making the second one easier to do.

Place the new bearings in the freezer overnight, get them out one at a time at the last min before fitting...

Top tip use two bit's of timber 4x2's on floor to lay the wheel on, keep it off the ground + put some old towles on the timber to protect the wheel.

Happy hammering...

[jchesshyre]

Again, massive thanks for this.

Would a big flat head screwdriver do as a drift...?

[KermitLeFrog]

Again, massive thanks for this.

Would a big flat head screwdriver do as a drift...?

A cold chisel would be better. You want metal to metal contact. It will need a short sharp shock.

[KermitLeFrog]

Also, as well as the bearings in the freezer, heat the wheel hub. I lodge a hair-dryer against it for 10 mins or so.

Start the bearing with a soft hammer, plastic or hide, and make sure you only hit the outside ring. Once it's started you can use the old bearing.

[MacV2]

Again, massive thanks for this.

Would a big flat head screwdriver do as a drift...?

Only if it's an engineers screwdriver...shaft goes all the way through the handle...Otherwise you'll end up with a screwdriver with a broken handle...

[jchesshyre]

Only if it's an engineers screwdriver...shaft goes all the way through the handle...Otherwise you'll end up with a screwdriver with a broken handle...

It is!

[tony.mon]

Also change the bearing in the sprocket carrier and check the cush drive rubbers for wear.
If the rear wheel has been running out of true it places additional loads on that bearing as well.

Lastly, check the chain to make sure there are no damaged links or sprocket wear.

[TheGingerBeardMan]

Don't despair or give up JCH!

I know your probably reading all these replies and thinking ''oh gawd...replace this bearing, that bearing, t'other bearing...check chain, sprockets, cush drive rubbers, sprocket carrier bearing etc'' - will it ever end...and this is gonna cost a bomb to replace....''

Bearings are cheap enough (even for tight people light me), and eBay does decent ones (M&P company on ebay) so a whole set isn't going to break the bank (or pocket).

You may even have a bearing shop / parts place that can match you up a set at a fraction of the cost (use the numbers stamped/etched on the bearing). It's the ''getting them out'' that can be a pain in the harris. Drift the new ones back in, as described (freeze new ones, and use the old bearing to sit on top of new one when it comes to refitting. You hit the old bearing one side at a time (imagine a clock face...so you'd tap 12 o clock, then 6 o clock, then 3 o clock, then 9 o clock)

Cush drive rubbers if genuine Honda are Mega bucks for what the are, and cheap aftermarket ones are again on ebay (they do the same job).

But, you might not need the drive rubbers, and the chain and sprockets may be ok if you haven't been riding for a long distance with the crashed bearing? Best of luck. Don't go too heavy on the hammer, and remember to clock face the new bearing in. That way, the bearing it goes in even & level, and doesn't push more on one side with the then fear of cracking the alumiunium casting. I've done that before, and it resulted in a replacement wheel.

As Mac suggests, the wheel will be on the ground with the rear disc, (which causes it to rock badly when hammering, and will damage the disc), so put 2 bits of wood under each side to even it up and a bit of carpet on top of the wood to stop the wheel rim getting damaged. For the sprocket side, you don't need the wood, as the wheel will sit flush on the carpet (you still need something to protect them rims!)

[MacV2]

Don't go too heavy on the hammer, and remember to clock face the new bearing in. That way, the bearing it goes in even & level, and doesn't push more on one side with the then fear of cracking the alumiunium casting. I've done that before, and it resulted in a replacement wheel.

As Mac suggests, the wheel will be on the ground with the rear disc, (which causes it to rock badly when hammering, and will damage the disc), so put 2 bits of wood under each side to even it up and a bit of carpet on top of the wood to stop the wheel rim getting damaged. For the sprocket side, you don't need the wood, as the wheel will sit flush on the carpet (you still need to protect them rims!)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO...Dont clock face them when driving in...Should be done square...As said use the old baering as a drift, unless you have a bearing driver kit...Or use a socket. remember you have to drive it in far enough to get the seal in as well...Using the old bearing for this means the old bearing then gets stuck in the face a few mm & can be a faff to get out...

Other than that enjoy the seal clubbing...

I had a part time job once, Seal clubbing...had to give it up as the commute was to far...

[tony.mon]

Would be alright for me, the next village is called Seal.

're using the old bearing as a drift, if you grind the shiny surface off of the outer race of the old bearing it doesn't get stuck.
You don't need to remove more than the shiny surface, just a scrape with a grinding wheel or flap wheel does the trick.
Same when fitting replacement head bearings.

[MacV2]

Would be alright for me, the next village is called Seal.

Ah!... but is there a club there ?