Brake caliper service question.
Brake caliper service question.
As some of you already know, I recently serviced the Firestorms front brake calipers, which included splitting the calipers, removing the pistons and all seals. Cleaning the pistons and checking under the seals for any corrosion.
Now all back together I find I have a very slight drag on the front wheel from the brakes, it's not huge but it wasn't there before I serviced the calipers.
The mot guy noticed it as well, but it wasn't enough to register on the brake tester.
The only thing I have changed is, I wound the front brake lever span adjuster out as far as it would go, I'm wondering if this might be something to do with it, so I will have a look at that later.
Have any of you Guy's after a full service on the front brake calipers experienced the same thing, brake drag
Chris.
Now all back together I find I have a very slight drag on the front wheel from the brakes, it's not huge but it wasn't there before I serviced the calipers.
The mot guy noticed it as well, but it wasn't enough to register on the brake tester.
The only thing I have changed is, I wound the front brake lever span adjuster out as far as it would go, I'm wondering if this might be something to do with it, so I will have a look at that later.
Have any of you Guy's after a full service on the front brake calipers experienced the same thing, brake drag
Chris.
- lloydie
- Posts: 20920
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: In the garage somewhere in Coventry
Re: Brake caliper service question.
New pads or pads fitted in different locations ?
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Re: Brake caliper service question.
I did fit new pads, but because the banjo joints on the calipers were not sealing 100% first off, rather than risk getting brake fluid on the new pads over night, I popped the old pads back in and they are still in there now, although as it turned out no fluid leaked out over night.
I'm not 100% sure the old pads went back in the original slots, only about 75% sure, because I wasn't intending to use them again,
Chris.
I'm not 100% sure the old pads went back in the original slots, only about 75% sure, because I wasn't intending to use them again,
Chris.
- lloydie
- Posts: 20920
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:16 pm
- Location: In the garage somewhere in Coventry
Re: Brake caliper service question.
They might just need bedding in .
Also might be worth loosening the left bottom fork pinch bolts on the spindle and giving it a few good bounces ,the check again after you've done them back up
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Also might be worth loosening the left bottom fork pinch bolts on the spindle and giving it a few good bounces ,the check again after you've done them back up
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Re: Brake caliper service question.
Apparently the larger of the two seals have a lip on them so go in a certain way up.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Brake caliper service question.
That's what the mot tester thought.lloydie wrote:They might just need bedding in.
That's not a bad idea, I have already done that although could be worth another go I agree.lloydie wrote:Also might be worth loosening the left bottom fork pinch bolts on the spindle and giving it a few good bounces ,the check again after you've done them back up
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Oooooooh that's news to me Mac about the seals having to go in a certain way on the larger pistons. I think I better have a look at my Honda Workshop manual.MacV2 wrote:Apparently the larger of the two seals have a lip on them so go in a certain way up.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
I don't think it's enough for a seal to have twisted, plus I would have thought it would be leaking brake fluid if that had happened.
Chris.
Re: Brake caliper service question.
Make sure pistons are out evenly on each side, clean up discs with some wet and dry or emery paper, rotate bobbins whilst spraying brake cleaner. put your new pads in and see what it's like then. if still slightly binding give a few miles and check again see if it's free'd up at all. Oh and definitely worth giving them another bleed, if you tie the lever up over night (about half way in, don't force it right back) then bleed off in the morning any extra air will come out.
What seals did you use ?, cheap ones aren't good, I use powerhouse for my seal kits or original items
What seals did you use ?, cheap ones aren't good, I use powerhouse for my seal kits or original items
http://www.bidefordmotorcycles.co.uk
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
- thunderbolt
- Posts: 302
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:12 am
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Re: Brake caliper service question.
I agree with everything that popkat said. I was going to mention the bobbins needing to be cleaned as well.
The other point is if the reservoir is overfilled the extra pressure in the chamber can cause slight brake drag. DO NOT FILL ABOVE THE HIGH LINE.
The other point is if the reservoir is overfilled the extra pressure in the chamber can cause slight brake drag. DO NOT FILL ABOVE THE HIGH LINE.
Cheers
Don
____________________________________________
Bikes:
1977 Suzuki GS550/700 - modified significantly
1981 Moto Guzzi 850 T4
1990 Suzuki VX800
2003 Honda Firestorm VTR1000
Don
____________________________________________
Bikes:
1977 Suzuki GS550/700 - modified significantly
1981 Moto Guzzi 850 T4
1990 Suzuki VX800
2003 Honda Firestorm VTR1000
Re: Brake caliper service question.
No not just the large pistons...each piston has two seals the larger of the two on each piston...as I said apparently...sirch345 wrote:
Oooooooh that's news to me Mac about the seals having to go in a certain way on the larger pistons. I think I better have a look at my Honda Workshop manual.MacV2 wrote:Apparently the larger of the two seals have a lip on them so go in a certain way up.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
I don't think it's enough for a seal to have twisted, plus I would have thought it would be leaking brake fluid if that had happened.
Chris.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Brake caliper service question.
I have just fitted my modified 17" front wheel complete with discs & fitted new pads whilst I was there & I too have a slight dragging disc/pad problem.
Like Lloydie says, might just need bedding in the new pads as I didn't go into the calipers & it was fine before.
My plan is to go for a ride & check the disc temps after a few miles.
Like Lloydie says, might just need bedding in the new pads as I didn't go into the calipers & it was fine before.
My plan is to go for a ride & check the disc temps after a few miles.
Re: Brake caliper service question.
I had a look at them yesterday. I tried resetting the left forkleg, but it didn't move, so made no difference, but worth a try I agree. I then removed the left caliper and pushed the bike along, I could still detect binding from the right side caliper/disc, like I said it's not a lot. I refitted the left caliper, pumped the pads out then removed the righthand side caliper, I could also detect the brake binding on the leftside. I also checked to see if any of the pistons seemed to be sticking, none of them did, I could see all pistons retracting when releasing the lever.lloydie wrote:They might just need bedding in .
Also might be worth loosening the left bottom fork pinch bolts on the spindle and giving it a few good bounces ,the check again after you've done them back up
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The pistons do seem to be out even on each side. The disc's have been cleaned up not that long ago and the bobbins were done then too, so I don't think it's that, although a good idea if I hadn't done them recently. Plus like I said, they were not binding before I serviced the calipers. I'll give the bleeding another go. I didn't replace the seals, as the old ones seemed to be good, and they were working fine before I stripped the calipers for servicing. Cheers for the info on the seal kits.popkat wrote:Make sure pistons are out evenly on each side, clean up discs with some wet and dry or emery paper, rotate bobbins whilst spraying brake cleaner. put your new pads in and see what it's like then. if still slightly binding give a few miles and check again see if it's free'd up at all. Oh and definitely worth giving them another bleed, if you tie the lever up over night (about half way in, don't force it right back) then bleed off in the morning any extra air will come out.
What seals did you use ?, cheap ones aren't good, I use powerhouse for my seal kits or original items
Seeing as the MOT tester, Lloydie and you have suggested they my just need some miles put on them, I think I will try that (if the bleeding doesn't fix it), providing the disc's are not getting hot of course.
My mistake Mac, I read that wrong, so it's the main seals on all pistons that you're referring too, not the dust seals which are thinner.MacV2 wrote:No not just the large pistons...each piston has two seals the larger of the two on each piston...as I said apparently...sirch345 wrote:
Oooooooh that's news to me Mac about the seals having to go in a certain way on the larger pistons. I think I better have a look at my Honda Workshop manual.MacV2 wrote:Apparently the larger of the two seals have a lip on them so go in a certain way up.
IIRC the lip should be at the bottom. Someone might be along to confirm this shortly.
So when the seal is in as you run a finger up the inside of the calliper the lip should be felt at the bottom of the seal...However I'm not sure that this would cause the brakes to drag.
If the brake is dragging it would indicate that the piston is not retracting, maybe one of the seals has popped out or has twisted when the piston was pushed back in...
In any case it would mean a strip down to check.
I don't think it's enough for a seal to have twisted, plus I would have thought it would be leaking brake fluid if that had happened.
Chris.
I have had a looking in the Honda Workshop manual and the Haynes just out of interest, but I can't see anything about the seals having to go in a certain way, can anyone else confirm this?
Thanks to all for your help and advice,
Chris.
Re: Brake caliper service question.
Please do let us know how you get on,Varastorm wrote:I have just fitted my modified 17" front wheel complete with discs & fitted new pads whilst I was there & I too have a slight dragging disc/pad problem.
Like Lloydie says, might just need bedding in the new pads as I didn't go into the calipers & it was fine before.
My plan is to go for a ride & check the disc temps after a few miles.
Chris.
Re: Brake caliper service question.
This came up a thread a couple of weeks ago IIRCcan anyone else confirm this?
Let me see if I can find it.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 30#p374128
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Re: Brake caliper service question.
cybercarl wrote:This came up a thread a couple of weeks ago IIRCcan anyone else confirm this?
Let me see if I can find it.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 30#p374128
(:-})
Knew I'd seen it somewhere...
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Brake caliper service question.
Even when I'm away my eye is not off the ball.
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