It's in bits again...

[Kurt999]

Having scratched my head for ages before resolving my self induced running problem...

(see here... http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=33463 )

my Storm has sat largely untouched due to me injuring my knee and it taking months to heal.

However a plan has been hatched and is now under way. The Storm is going to remain road legal, but become my track day bike, and also be used to do some hill climbs this year.

First order is to sort out to sort out the front end. I've pulled the forks out and stripped them and the damper rods have already been ground as per the specs found here in the sticky 'Standard Fork Service' and the additional oil relief hole is already there. Strangely the fork springs and spacers are stock so I have some K-Tech 85n/mm linears coming, along with some 7.5w oil.. The stanchions look ok with a little rust outside the swept area, so I'll probably just polish them up with a little autosol. I already have new bushes and seals for the forks

If budget allows the fork lowers, yokes, clip-ons, clock subframe and seat subframe are going for satin black powder coat. I'd love to get the frame done too but I'm worried that the adjustable mounts in the frame might be seized so I may have to leave that until I'm feeling brave.

While that's going on I have a set of All Balls steering bearings to go in...(I've never done steering bearings so that should be interesting!!) and I need to give the calipers a clean up and flush through.

As for tyres I think PR4s will be what I end up with.

I'll post up some pics as I go along, and advice greatfully recieved

Kurt

PS I ought to have a look at the rear suspension linkage, the bikes done 10k in 13 years and it's probably never been greased

[sirch345]

If your All Balls steering head bearings are tapered roller bearings, which I'm guessing they are, don't use the recommended torque figures in the Haynes manual for tightening the castellated nuts down, as roller bearings will required less torque than the original ball bearing type bearings. Also make sure the outer bearing races are full home in their recesses when fitting them. An-other-words they have fitted in the frame as far as they will go, bottomed out.

Definitely check out the suspension linkage, I can't emphasise doing that job enough

You don't want this happening or worse:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809

Chris.

[Kurt999]

If your All Balls steering head bearings are tapered roller bearings, which I'm guessing they are, don't use the recommended torque figures in the Haynes manual for tightening the castellated nuts down, as roller bearings will required less torque than the original ball bearing type bearings. Also make sure the outer bearing races are full home in their recesses when fitting them. An-other-words they have fitted in the frame as far as they will go, bottomed out.

Definitely check out the suspension linkage, I can't emphasise doing that job enough

You don't want this happening or worse:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=11809

Chris.

Thanks, I was going to tighten the head bearings by feel. I read somewhere not to over grease them too, otherwise the rollers skid on the outer race rather than rolling.

I read that thread about the mullahed linkage before. Not nice!!

[lloydie]

Good news on the fork internals
Head bearings are easy and will require an adjustment after 200 miles

[sirch345]

Thanks, I was going to tighten the head bearings by feel. I read somewhere not to over grease them too, otherwise the rollers skid on the outer race rather than rolling.

That's good. You want to remove all the play by tightening the castellated nuts up by hand, then replace the top yoke and torque the top steering stem nut up to the correct torque. With the front wheel suspended off the ground you want a slight resistance as the steering turns right and left, but you must torque that top nut up first to the correct torque value before checking.

I've not heard that bit about the grease before.

I read that thread about the mullahed linkage before. Not nice!!

So you should know better in not checking/servicing them in 13 years

Chris.

[Kurt999]

Thanks, I was going to tighten the head bearings by feel. I read somewhere not to over grease them too, otherwise the rollers skid on the outer race rather than rolling.

That's good. You want to remove all the play by tightening the castellated nuts up by hand, then replace the top yoke and torque the top steering stem nut up to the correct torque. With the front wheel suspended off the ground you want a slight resistance as the steering turns right and left, but you must torque that top nut up first to the correct torque value before checking.

Top tip, thanks

I've not heard that bit about the grease before.

I read it on the internet so it must be true

I read that thread about the mullahed linkage before. Not nice!!

So you should know better in not checking/servicing them in 13 years

Chris.

That's down to the first owner I'm afraid. Although he did lob it up the road at some point and it looks like it had a new swinging arm so hopefully the repairer did it properly. I'm not filled with confidence tho as when I stripped the forks I had red oil in one leg and a grey watery sludge type of slop in the other.

[Kurt999]

Fork stanchions just gone to AM Philpott for some lovely new hard chrome...9 week turnaround though!!

I was wrong about the internals already being modded, so Roger D is getting them once he comes back from Oz (lucky bugger!!)

Incidently, I told him I was going to do the California Superbike School and he said this....


Just a word of warning, The California Superbike Race School used to do a session using second and third gears but NO BRAKES, if they still do it I recommend that you excuse yourself from that particular session. Over the years I have had three VTRs and two SP1s who all had the same mechanical issue during that NO BRAKES session. They all snapped the front cylinder con rod just below the “little eye”. This issue has never occurred on either model of bike under any other circumstance. I believe that this may be a combination of a Honda design fault and/or a rider misjudgement of speed to rev ratio causing a “whiplash effect” that snaps the con rod.

Best I spend the £250 sheets and hire one of their 1200 Monsters then, and see if i can rod that instead

[TravisZack]

I recently had frame, subframe, fork lowers, swingarm, exhaust hangars and grab rail powder coated satin black, all for £100. They did a good job, blasted all the parts, masked off the threaded holes and bearing surfaces. That was at Potteries Powder Coating in Stoke, nowhere near Kent, but look around and you might get some good prices, some places were quoting over £200 for the same parts and were further away. I just took a gamble and am happy with the result.

My forks are also going to Roger when he's back, I'll race ya...

And yes, shock linkage
I refurbished mine and had to replace the bearings as they were mostly dust. Only sign was a slight squeak from the rear end.
Just regreased it again and sprayed it black for a little more protection.

[Kurt999]

Who is recommended for powder coating. I want to get the fork lowers, subframe, clock subframe, clip-ons, top and bottom yokes and maybe footrest hangers and associated bits done in satin black.

Just arrived...

HRC coolant bottle...(I have thumb screws but my sausage fingers can't get to them)
HRC quick action throttle
Oil filter, misc bits and bobs from DS Spares
Shims for 8541Hawks carb setup
3mm shim for rear shock


Trying to convince myself to buy some alloy bellmouths but I'm on a bit of a budget

Still need...

Tyres, coolant, brake fluid, pipe to install coolant bottle


Still to do (while waiting for forks)...

Remove parts for powder coat
Fit head bearings
Install coolant bottle,
Install QA throttle
Clean calipers
Bleed brakes
Bleed clutch....

what else?????

[VTRDark]

Just a word of warning, The California Superbike Race School used to do a session using second and third gears but NO BRAKES, if they still do it I recommend that you excuse yourself from that particular session. Over the years I have had three VTRs and two SP1s who all had the same mechanical issue during that NO BRAKES session. They all snapped the front cylinder con rod just below the “little eye”. This issue has never occurred on either model of bike under any other circumstance. I believe that this may be a combination of a Honda design fault and/or a rider misjudgement of speed to rev ratio causing a “whiplash effect” that snaps the con rod.

Oh yes I remembering reading something about this over on the Superhawk site. I wonder if Big_Jim's bike has been down that road.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35816

Good to hear an update on the bike Kurt and it seems things are coming along nicely.

(:-})

[Kurt999]

Just a word of warning, The California Superbike Race School used to do a session using second and third gears but NO BRAKES, if they still do it I recommend that you excuse yourself from that particular session. Over the years I have had three VTRs and two SP1s who all had the same mechanical issue during that NO BRAKES session. They all snapped the front cylinder con rod just below the “little eye”. This issue has never occurred on either model of bike under any other circumstance. I believe that this may be a combination of a Honda design fault and/or a rider misjudgement of speed to rev ratio causing a “whiplash effect” that snaps the con rod.

Oh yes I remembering reading something about this over on the Superhawk site. I wonder if Big_Jim's bike has been down that road.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35816

Good to hear an update on the bike Kurt and it seems things are coming along nicely.

(:-})

Thanks mate, it's all systems go again ( in between day shifts, night shifts and writing long boring essays for my BSc. I'm 46 ffs i should be having a mid life crisis, not still going to bloody school!!!)

[Kurt999]

Update ...

I got alot of the disassembly done today. All the bodywork is off, the clipons, yokes, clock support and rear subframe are in the box for the powdercoaters along with the fork sliders. (The steering bearings had been lovingly treated to gobs of copperslip...nice!) I removed the outer races from the frame without much trouble.

I also pulled the carbs off and shimmed the needles as per the carb setup sticky on the other forum. I didn't epoxy one lift hole in the front as I intend to use 2 long stacks.

All nuts bolts and fastners are in marked up sealed bags

As I'm this far, I'm half tempted to pull the frame off and get it flat blacked too.

Questions...

From where I am, how hard is it to get the frame off, and more importantly back on again? ( I bought the castle nut tool thing already)

What tool do I need to find to remove the lower race off the steering stem?

Do I just drill the heads off the security bolts holding the ignition switch on?

Thanks

:-)

[Kurt999]

[AMCQ46]

good work so far.

some quick answers:

yes just grind off or drill the lock bolts

lower bearing on steering stem.... i normally grind most of the way through it and then when there is just a vry thing section left I hit it a good belt with a lump hammer and sharp cold chisel and it cracks open and falls off.

getting the frame off the engine from where you are is not too hard, but the big risk is if the long mounting bolt in the middle of the V won't come out due to corrosion, you could be fighting it for days and perhaps end up cutting it out, so check it will come out before you do any other prep.
you will need to swap the scissor jack under the engine for a flat block [or little stool] then it will stay there with the abba stand and the swing arm when you lift the frame off.

[AMCQ46]

oh, and put tape over the back cam cover before you remove the frame, the clearance is tight and it will save you scratching the paint on the cam cover with the frame