Bleeding brake & clutch lines
Bleeding brake & clutch lines
Does anybody know which is the cheapest & best tool for this job? Or will a large syringe with a helper do just fine?
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
60ml catheter syringe (a couple of quid) comes in handy, or a pressure bleeder (£££) or a simple jam jar and hose (pennies) - take your pick
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
Large syringe works fine & is one man job if you don't need a helper as you fill it all from the bottom, so no need for topping up the reservoir.
Take your pick...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40
Take your pick...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
OK had not thought about filling from the bottom. Moving over to a race setup from standard which side would you do first? Can the clutch be dealt with in the same fashion?
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
I've always done them by hand up until the other day where I used a syringe on Marty's bike to do the clutch. I pulled the fluid and air out from the bottom (nipple end) into the syringe. It was reasonably easy as I had marty there to pull the lever in and out on my say so and keep an eye on the reservoir levels. Just remember to pull on the syringe first to get some suction before cracking open the nipple and don't open the nipple too far as air can sometimes get back in between the thread. If you have everything stripped down and doing a complete bleed of the whole system then it's a good idea to put a bit of PTFE tape around the nipple threads. And yes, bleed the clutch the same way as the brakes. It just takes a little longer and watch those fluid levels as it soon goes down with that little reservoir.
If you have a completely drained system then you could do a reverse bleed and push the fluid in from the nipple end but you have to be careful you don't introduce air back into the system. So once you have filled the syringe give it a squeeze to purge any air out the hose before connecting it onto the nipple and cracking it open. Also watch you don't put so much in that it starts to overflow out the top of the reservoir and spoil your paintwork.
Here's a handy thread on bleeding.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14898
[edit] what's with all the smilies appearing automatically in posts for certain words. This is new and very annoying.
I like to have the option to add them if I wish and compromise legibility.[/edit]
(:-})
If you have a completely drained system then you could do a reverse bleed and push the fluid in from the nipple end but you have to be careful you don't introduce air back into the system. So once you have filled the syringe give it a squeeze to purge any air out the hose before connecting it onto the nipple and cracking it open. Also watch you don't put so much in that it starts to overflow out the top of the reservoir and spoil your paintwork.
Here's a handy thread on bleeding.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14898
[edit] what's with all the smilies appearing automatically in posts for certain words. This is new and very annoying.
I like to have the option to add them if I wish and compromise legibility.[/edit](:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
I did mine one side at a time, just watch the reservoir so that it doesn't overflow ! Just fill one side until you can see fluid in the reservoir. Then do the other side. IIRC I started with the left side just because when you do the right side it's easier to see the reservoir. When done both sides top up the res & put the cap back on. Leave cap loose & tie the brake leaver to the bar, leave over night to let any bubbles rise up through the pipes for that extra hard lever feel.darkember wrote:OK had not thought about filling from the bottom. Moving over to a race setup from standard which side would you do first? Can the clutch be dealt with in the same fashion?
Filling from the bottom means no trapped air makes it quick & simple.
Top tip... use the syringe to suck out the old fluid before you strip the old pipes off.
Yes you can do the clutch in the same way.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
You generally start with the line that is furthest away, the longer line. If you done it the other way around and they where linked lines (ie non race/original) there's a chance of putting air back into the other side. As they are separate race lines it does not matter so much. Just something to be aware ofI started with the left side just because when you do the right side it's easier to see the reservoir.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Bleeding brake & clutch lines
A couple of last questions.
When doing the overnight brake lever tied back to the bar. I am aware to leave the reservoir cap loose, what about the rubber diaphragm does that remain in location or is it removed during this process?
Secondly, is it worth repeating this same process for the clutch system?
When doing the overnight brake lever tied back to the bar. I am aware to leave the reservoir cap loose, what about the rubber diaphragm does that remain in location or is it removed during this process?
Secondly, is it worth repeating this same process for the clutch system?