Replacing SC36 Ignition Control Module with Ignitech TCI P4

[MK_WF]

Hi folks,
this is the second howto and it covers wiring the Ignitech TCI P4 to replace a faulty Ignition Control Module.
The TCI is some 50 Eur cheaper than a DC CDI, but in this case the stock Honda ignition converter needs to be functional with this modification!

The parts will cost you around 140 Eur. incl shipping.

Part list:
- Ignitech TCI P4 (http://ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm)
- Ignitech adapter cable (for TCI P4 to Honda 16 terminal connector)

As the adapter cable is originally designed for the TCI P4 it's almost a plug and play install.
Only thing to do: The Honda 16 pin connector on the adapter has a clamped in reduction and a second rubber seal that needs to be removed.


The result will look like this:


Connect the TCI to your PC (USB to serial needed; cable needs the right drivers) and use the following settings:




I have posted some different ignition map options here.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 5&start=75

For the cheapskates who plan to save the 20 bucks for the adapter cable, the wiring will look like this:
Cylinder 1 means rear, cylinder 2 is front


Take care that you strobe your individual bike after installing the TCI.
When idling the "F" marks (=15 deg BTDC) on the rotor should match the mark on the housing.


I'm using this setup on my (non HISS) '98 SC36 since August 2015 and had no issues yet.

[tony.mon]

Well done, nice write-up.

[MK_WF]

A sensible addition to the programmable TCI is an exhaust mod with a valve inside.
The butterfly adds a bit of torque down below and can be used to calm down noise emissions. The actuation map can be dependent on rpm and throttle position, so you can keep it shut on high rpm and low throttle which you'd have in a noise control situation...

In my test case I used a Ducati Hypermotard 1100 valve and servo which is about 70 mm long and 55 mm in diameter.
Mechanical work is done and I'm about to do the electrical/programming setup.

[sirch345]

I'll be interested to hear how things go with this mod

Good luck with it,

Chris.

[MK_WF]

The first testrides were with and without the valve active were quite positive.
There's an increase in torque below 4k and the engine runs smoother at low revs (ideal for cruising through urban area).
The "hickups" on constant riding below 3k with a cold engine are somewhat dampened (though still there and noticeable).
The throttle response also became crispier at low revs.
The noise emission is substantially reduced if the valve is in closed position.

On the counterside you now feel a dip in the torque curve at around 5k.
The counterprobe with the valve open proved that it strengthens the low range but at 5k the effect zeros out. So if there's more below, you now feel a flat spot.

My next test will be with my carbon race cans which were too loud for road use.
I'm eager to see how much the valve can tame that ....

[sirch345]

Thanks for the update Martin, interesting to hear what you have discovered so far

Chris.

[MK_WF]

Another update on the Exup stuff:
I changed to a ZX10 servo and placed it under the seat which is a nice place.
No moist or dirt and hidden from public.


The final version looks like this:


I've also started experimenting with calming down the noise emissions of my shark high up with a 3D map (opening angle vs. rpm and throttle position) controlling the butterfly angle.
Strategy is to keep it shut or at small opening for low throttle in all rpms (low noise cruisin' or noise testing).
On higher throttle it opens more and earlier (optimized for best torque).
This turned out to be a bit of work as it's a lot of try and error with road testing instead of having a dyno.
Currently I suffer from the ZX10 servo being much slower than the Ducati one which creates a turbo-like short lag when being at 3k and opening up to WOT very fast.
But in the worst case I can still go back to the Ducati servo (which wouldrequire building new bowden cables, too).

PS: What I didn't mention in the former posts: The TCI P4 is available in two versions, standard and full.
If you plan to use a servo, you want to purchase the full version as the other one hasn't got the servo controller onboard.

[VTR Phoenix]

So you've just stuck a htev/h-vix on a storm?

[MK_WF]

Basically yes.
But one that can be programmed by yourself.