Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

Wicky wrote: Thu Aug 08, 2019 6:42 am
To hold a stop plate that prevents the reservoir lid from falling off.

To replace the corrosion prone OEM exhaust clamps Mikalor do W4 Supra fully stainless clamps

Image
Thank you for pointing out the stop plate, I'm not sure how on earth I missed that on the fiche. I was able to add that to my existing OEM parts order.

That's a nice clamp, thank you for sharing. I'll find out how long the OEM clamp lasts from new.
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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

tony.mon wrote: Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:33 am The writing on the crankcase is a quality control sign-off mark.
They all have one somewhere.
Different inspectors mark them in different places.

Changing the clutch res is unusual, mostly I've just cleaned them up and put a stretchy towelling sleeve on to hide it.

HRC make a sleeve, apparently......
Thanks for the information!

About changing the reservoir being unusual, I'm an unusual guy, lol! Seriously though I've got a thing for OEM parts. I think it comes from being a three wheeler enthusiast. So many things are discontinued for trikes, some machines more than others. Over the years of chasing unobtaneum parts for trikes, being able to order almost all OEM parts for a bike is something that's exciting for me. If I hid the crusty reservoirs, I'd still know they were crusty, and it would bother me. Just swapping the two reservoirs on the handlebars will make this bike appear 15 years younger.
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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

Today is the first time I've ridden the Superhawk since the work I did the other day, which included bleeding the clutch. Well as it turns out, I have a new issue.

Before I bled the clutch, when it was full of swamp water, it would disengage just as soon as you started to release it. If you weren't used to it, it made the bike very easy to stall. Now I have the direct opposite problem. Now the clutch doesn't disengage until the lever is almost all the way out. So far out actually, that I wasn't sure it was going to engage at all. It does, but it's way too far out. I tried adjusting the lever, but it wasn't enough.

My guess currently is that the clutch is smoked and it's time for new plates. Unless I'm missing something?

Thanks guys.
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8541Hawk
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by 8541Hawk »

First make sure all the air is out of the system and then.....well the clutch will never work like you think it should.

That is just the way it is. There is no "sliding" the clutch on this bike.

There are different theories of why this happens, personally I believe it has to do with the 270-450 firing order and the amount of torque the bike makes.

No matter what the root cause, there really is no "fix" and yes many things have been tried.

Once you become used to it though, things become easy.
To me, it is more like launching whatever your favorite pony car happens to be with a V8 and a manual. No need to slide the clutch there, just let it out while giving some throttle and off you go.
These bikes work the same way....well except they will happily lift the front end if you get to aggressive with the throttle. :thumbup:

Also because of all this, clutch plates and steels tend to last quite a while..... the ones I pulled from my last engine were OEM with over 100K miles and still had plenty of life in them.
Though the clutch spring went soft at around 80K and the aftermarket, slightly heavier, springs worked very well.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
tony.mon
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by tony.mon »

Yep, just bleed it some more, then tie the lever back to the bar overnight.
That doesn't work anywhere near as well as with brakes, but still helps to get the last few tiny bubbles out of the line.

Carry on bleeding for twenty minutes after it feels as though you've finished!
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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fabiostar
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by fabiostar »

that xr three wheeler must be a mad thing to ride :eek2 :eek2
the older i get,the faster i was :lol:
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Fabiodriven
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Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

I think I might be explaining this wrong. I got all the air out the first time, it's solid as a rock. The problem is the clutch doesn't grab until the lever is way far out.

Before I bled it, the fluid was old and soaked with moisture, and at that point the lever was squishy. That's essentially the same as having air in the line, squishy feeling clutch.

At this point it's solid like it should be, it's just that it's grabbing at the very end of the lever travel. There's no way it should be that far out. That's why I'm thinking the plates are worn, because something is causing the clutch to grab that far out. Either something is really worn or completely missing.
Last edited by Fabiodriven on Sat Aug 10, 2019 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

fabiostar wrote:that xr three wheeler must be a mad thing to ride :eek2 :eek2
It's an absolute hoot, thanks! I have some videos posted on my YouTube. Same username as here on the forum. Here's a thread about the bike too.

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/12 ... or-advice/
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8541Hawk
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by 8541Hawk »

Again...that's how they work. :wink:
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

8541Hawk wrote:Again...that's how they work. :wink:
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm going to investigate nonetheless. If that's just how it's made, it's getting modified. :-)
tony.mon
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by tony.mon »

Worth pulling the clutch cover off to check that the outermost plate tongues are in the spring plate holes.
The last friction plate should always lock into the spring plate.

The other option is the po has stuck in an extra metal plate to compensate for wear in the friction plates.

Or the metal spacer plate behind the clutch cover is missing... It's sort of c shaped and spaces the clutch cover out from the crankcase surfaces. Maybe check that first, as its easiest.


As these are auto adjusting, there's no other reasons I can think of.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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8541Hawk
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by 8541Hawk »

Fabiodriven wrote: Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:43 pm
8541Hawk wrote:Again...that's how they work. :wink:
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm going to investigate nonetheless. If that's just how it's made, it's getting modified. :-)
People have been trying for 22 yrs now so you should be able to search all the different things that have been tried....though none have worked.
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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Fabiodriven
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Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

8541Hawk wrote:
Fabiodriven wrote: Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:43 pm
8541Hawk wrote:Again...that's how they work. :wink:
I'm not saying you're wrong, but I'm going to investigate nonetheless. If that's just how it's made, it's getting modified. :-)
People have been trying for 22 yrs now so you should be able to search all the different things that have been tried....though none have worked.
Tell me I can't. That's my favorite!
Last edited by Fabiodriven on Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Fabiodriven
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by Fabiodriven »

tony.mon wrote:Worth pulling the clutch cover off to check that the outermost plate tongues are in the spring plate holes.
The last friction plate should always lock into the spring plate.

The other option is the po has stuck in an extra metal plate to compensate for wear in the friction plates.

Or the metal spacer plate behind the clutch cover is missing... It's sort of c shaped and spaces the clutch cover out from the crankcase surfaces. Maybe check that first, as its easiest.


As these are auto adjusting, there's no other reasons I can think of.
Sounds good and I thank you very much. I'm wondering if the manual provides a minimum thickness for the plates as well.
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8541Hawk
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Re: Currently in Coshocton, Ohio

Post by 8541Hawk »

Fabiodriven wrote: Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:54 pm Tell me I can't. That's my favorite!
Actually just trying to save you a little time and cash but its all good.

The hydraulic clutch means the clutch will engage and disengage at the end of the lever travel.
Just like the brake system, there is no "free play" (unless there is air in the system) before the caliper pistons start to move when you pull the lever.
Same with the clutch slave cylinder. Pull the level, the slave moves. Its just how they work.

Now you can spend some cash on a Brembo radial master and an Oberon slave to get a bit more "feel" but it will still engage and disengage at the end of the lever travel.

The other option is to convert to the cable clutch system from a Varadero.
It has been done but the fact that it is in no way a "common" mod kind of shows it really isn't worth the time.

So no one says you can't do anything but it is a well traveled road. :thumbup:
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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