VTR1000.ORG

I got some nice new rubber fitted. I had some Roadtec 01s on there but they had worn to the point where the handling was decidely dodgy, lots of inside bar pressure needed to hold down in the turns. Replaced with nice new Bridgestone S22s. These feel super lovely and the bike loves them, feeling ver...

The fan should come on from about halfway on the gauge (corresponding to around 100C). As suggested above, check the fan blades turn freely, I had a stone jammed in mine and that caused the fuse to pop when it tried to run. The fan motor always has a live 12v feed, the thermoswitch connects up the e...

My choke button mount broke where it passes through the frame bracket, so I ordered a new part and installed that last night. Not really too much fun but I got the carbs off, then mounted up and routed the new part without breaking the plastic fittings, and then got it all reinstalled. AND the bike ...

The bolt spacing is perfect, but you need to file a little metal off the lower fork mount to clear the caliper, will take 5 mins per side with a hand file.

I've replaced the gaskets on my ST1100 chasing an oil leak. Turns out the old gasket (from 1990!) was fine, but the only things holding it down to the mating surface are the hold down bolts, and they have rubber washers that do compress over time. That resuls in less clamping force and not enough pr...

I have done a little more research on bikes using conventional show 41mm forks. For instance: Honda NSR250R 1989-1996 has very similar setup. And TYGA does work on them. I have found their Front fork overhaul on a MC28 NSR 250 SE at: http://tyga-performance.com/images/00psm/02tpfitman/08fitmantunin...

Thanks fellas. My user name is indeed chocolate related, I used to own a purple Suzuki RF900R that was named Cadbury on account of its colour! Bet you wished you still had it. Looks gorgeous I owned that one from new 1996 until I 2014 when I got a 99 VFR800 instead, about 55000km of use. Not a bad ...

Thanks fellas.

My user name is indeed chocolate related, I used to own a purple Suzuki RF900R that was named Cadbury on account of its colour!

The screw and needle are one and the same, and thread through the preload adjuster. I've never tried to remove the needle from the adjuster and assume there must be a circlip in there somewhere to retain it. The assembled cap then screws onto the hollow damper rod so the needle tip ends up just abov...

Well that explains why my visor keeps getting covered in filth! Why doesn't the owner's manual have this sort of useful detail in it???

Can I use synthetic washer fluid or does it have to be mineral-based?

Honda are not as helpful as you'd hope when it comes to torque for case screws. I think the only info in the manual is this.

Lock-down time = plenty of time to make measurements My OEM shock yielded the following: 1. Top Mounting eye inside diameter 10.0mm 2. Top mounting eye width 28.35mm 2.5 Top mounting clevis inside width 28.55mm 3. Bottom mounting eye Inside Diameter 10.0mm 4. Bottom eye Width (bushing) 39.00mm

After seeing where the exhaust pipe runs to the muffler, I'm never going to complain again about the engine heat coming off my ST1300...

Great project and pics!

The cut and test method does sound best, the standard sping is progressive so I'm not sure that it would be a simple matter to calculate a rate. If it helps, I run 0.85kg/mm straight rate springs in my VTR and weigh 85kg (+/- christmas "conditioning"). The standard springs are listed at 0....

KermitLeFrog wrote: ↑Thu Jan 17, 2019 8:22 am I have a fierce peanut habit.

Is that when the peanuts bite you back?