VTR1000.ORG

use the back brake and chain, will be fine. Don't use the engine at all as when you are doing it up you are rotation the engine backwards and the pressure is on the cct's, you don't want to damage them now.

No probs, was cubicicicicubicinio I was really trying to tell.

Stratman, don't do the insert the screw driver in and back it off abit. That will only work properly at TDC on the compression stroke, anywhere else and as you back it off the pressure of the valves (inlet or exhaust - which ever is open) will cause the cct to not spring back to it's orignal positio...

If the dealer says they have balanced the carbs check to see if the front blanking cap head screw looks like it has been removed, if not then there is no way they have balanced the carbs. The cylinders are made from the same cast and just machined different so locate the rear first and then look at ...

ya beat me to it there

try loosening the joint and putting some thread lock on the ball joint and then tighten it back up, leave it over night though. Try Loctite 243 first then try the green stud lock (cant remember the number off hand).

Make sure you leave it over night to set though.

The tube is just a vent and they do have the T piece standard. Once the throttle has been help WOT for a while the carb balancing is not in the equation as this only effects the slides when they are not fully open. Double check the cam timing, letters (FT or RT) and the (-) to be central in the insp...

From memory yes there is a bearing inside the case, maybe they should have changed that too last year. You could try that angle. You got the case off, if so then you should see the bearing. the case should be dowelled too, check they are in as thats what centres the case properly.

be careful if it has semi locked the cct because if it does move then it will stay retracted because of the bolt. The main time the cct is under pressure is when the throttle is shut off at high revs to engine break as the crank is then working on the opposite side of the cam chain pushing against t...

The longer bolt would (if it does not seat on the outer cct case) just (sort of but not properly) lock the cct into position. If it has not seated then the cct will piss oil out as it gets collected due to the angle and gravity. You sure the timing marks are lining up ok, it's the mark and the lette...

what does the guides in the head look like, looking up the port where the valve was. That's had a fair wack mate. stress to bend the valve would be on cam journals and piston against the small end and possibly big end shells.

not sure what you are saying about the cct, you mean when you replaced the spring.

It's probably the camchain, does it sound like an anvil, done a few bikes in the past with stretched camchains, you can tell as the timing marks will be out. Try a new cct to start with I guess. If the cct retracted more than about 5-7mm then it would skip teeth. If it is the chain once it's been re...

err dunno, dunno. have new piston too and maybe a new rod too plus the complete head. It's one of those, well it's made marks and some thing has to give, piston is soft, valve stems are v thin, up to you but it's alot of work to put it all together, plus the expense, gaskets, oil, fluid and why take...

If the front head is coming off I would give it a full going over, so yes. Make sure you have a good set of torque wrenches for doing the whole job, checking the shims and bolting the head back on. Follow the workshop manual and should all be ok.

or not, i have a standard head if you need one, with the cams too as you need really to change the whole lot.