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Bought them off an ebay seller, currently going through the returns process but because it has been so long since I bought them before finally fitting them last weekend, I think I am past the usual return period. Re: machining the old discs - is this ever necessary on bikes? I know with cars it's go...

I don't have a proper runout gauge but holding my digital caliper up against the fork leg I think the runout is around the limit of 0.3mm or possibly more, but again without the right equipment it's pretty impossible to tell. If I have to fit my old discs again, should I have them resurfaced first? ...

Well to be fair the first ride will be a gentle test around the block to see if the brakes pulse, in the same way I'd do any test ride after working on it. I'm not about to ride out on something I honestly think is dangerous! Bear in mind we are only taking about what may possibly amount to a slight...

I took another look at this when I got home from work tonight and I think that it's not a problem. Depending on how I move the semi floating disc with my hand I can pretty much prevent the sound of the rubbing, so I'm pretty sure that if I slightly tighten one or two bolts on that part of the disc t...

Hey Sirch345 that's a good thought! I can't do that until I finish replacing my brake lines and put brake fluid back into the system but will try that first. I decided to buy new discs because my old discs felt slightly wavey on the left side. So when I replaced the pads and flushed the system I als...

Hello fellow Stormer brethren, I have just fitted new discs after replacing my old OEM ones. Having now fitted the wheel back on the bike, I can see and hear that the front right disc is not perfectly flat, once per wheel revolution it rubs against the disc. I tightened the disc to the correct the c...

Thanks guys! Looking forward to doing this and hopefully seeing an improvement in performance.


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Steve that's a lot different from what dynojet specify! They say 2.5 turns front and 2.25 rear. Do you have a k&n filter and fairly open slip on pipes as well?

I get a fair bit of popping and am definitely running very rich


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Great thank you!


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Am i right in understanding that step 7 is saying to turn the idle speed screw to reduce the idle speed down to 1200rpm after raising it to the peak value in step 5, and likewise instep 10? Also since i have a DynoJet kit i assume I'll assume the final opening values for me will be the 2.5 turns as...

Am i right in understanding that step 7 is saying to turn the idle speed screw to reduce the idle speed down to 1200rpm after raising it to the peak value in step 5, and likewise instep 10? Also since i have a DynoJet kit i assume I'll assume the final opening values for me will be the 2.5 turns as ...

The rear is still way too rich. Are you sure the carb isn't faulty, blocked airway or sticking choke cable/plunger? My emulsion tubes started to oval in my carbs and I had a hell of a job first getting the jetting right and then keeping it right as the wear slowly progressed over time. Pete.l Huh. ...

Thanks for the tip!


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I just bought some HEL. Haven't fitted them yet but the quality seems fantastic! Also they make the banjos in colours matching the lines (transparent blue for me) :-)


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Mine is pretty loud and clunky going into first. New oil helped very slightly but I think all storm boxes (clutches?) are this way...


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