VTR1000.ORG

Those voltages are within safe specs. As for the earth you could try running an earth direct from the battery to see if it make a difference. It's better to have a direct earth in any case. R/R's do get quite hot, especially the non MOSFET as they shunt the excess voltages away in the form of heat....

All back together now took a long time due to the birth of my daughter. Charging at 14.29 volts at 5000rpm rises to 14.60 at tick over not sure if this is right? Plug into R/R still getting warm, could this be down to the earth? Has anyone run a separate earth from the R/R to ground? Cheers for all ...

Have you taken the meter's resistance into consideration. Touch the probes together to see what the meters resistance is and delete that from your final reading. http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28771 As for taking that stator off to physically check. There's not much that can be ...

Wicky wrote:You got the specified range right (0.2-0.5) and if out Honda recommend replacing the alternator stator.

Thanks, seems a shame to change for 0.3 ohms

darkember wrote:If you suspect the reg rec then change that as well as it will fry the battery again.

Already have new RR but wondering if 0.8 ohms is ok across the stator?

Broke down the other week, wouldn't start. Had similar problem on my blade on the way to Portugal so recognized the issue. Rectifier had failed non finned version. Just checking the rest of the circuit and found battery screwed and plug on rectifier melted. Changed battery and new plug on rectifier....

Thanks for your help,

I will try the electric drill method then if fails try cutting a small hole to hold the nut.

Brian

Hi, has anyone had trouble getting the allen key bolts out of the fairing underneath the seat area on the rear fairing. I need to change my rectifier but they seem to be just going round and round. I'm hoping the screw fitting in the frame hasn't come loose otherwise I could be stuffed.

Thanks

Bri

Took some time to find the fault but believe it or not stumbled upon it. It has crash bobbins fitted and apparently one had come slightly loose letting the engine move very slightly thus causing a click. Tightened up click gone but everyone who heard it said it was coming from the front. Weird :thum...

Hi guys, stripped the front end down and replaced the head bearings again. Took my time and followed instructions in the workshop thread. Still clicks!! If I don't have the forks in place so just the bottom and top clamps I can pull up hard and it clicks push down and clicks but there is no play in ...

I bought All balls from eBay when I did mine. No issues apart from getting the adjustment right as it took a couple of hundred miles for them to bed in and seat fully, so ended up tweaking them a few times until I was happy. And yes use the top dust seal. (:-}) How tight did you set them to begin w...

Yes all a tight fit and seated properly. I think the bearing is at fault and will order a new one although I cannot see anything. I may just be unlucky and got a bad bearing?

I know the bottom dust seal goes on but should the top dust seal also be fitted?

Where do you guys buy bearings from?

Thanks

Stripped it down and isolated the problem. The problem is with the head bearings removed forks pulled up on the brace clicks push down clicks. The problem I have is these are new bearings. Stripped the whole front down checked the bearings they are fine, seats are fine and in correctly. So now I am ...

Will have a look tomorrow. Will check wheel bearings and brake pads. After that I think i may give in and take to the garage.

lloydie wrote:Can you feel it click or clunk in the bars ?
Another one could be fork bushes .

Can't really feel anything through the bars that's what is strange. Handling seems good as well apart from the time I did them up a little too tight.

What are the symptoms of fork bushes? would there be a leak or play?